Traditional Printing And Dyeing - The Most Beautiful Touch Retained In Modern Fashion

　　 Clamp valerian It is an ancient printing and dyeing technique in China. Clamp the silk or cotton cloth with two carved patterns, soak it in indigo dye, then rinse and dry it to make it finally become a piece with printed and dyed patterns spin Products. It is called "four vales" together with the traditional Chinese printing and dyeing techniques -- batik, wringing and gray vale, that is, today's clip dyeing, batik, tie dyeing and blue printed cloth. Jiavale was very popular in the Tang Dynasty, but gradually declined. By the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was like a rarity and gradually became unknown.

Keep the last touch of indigo

Zhang Qin, a folklorist who studies Lanjiavale, spent five years on fieldwork, visiting folk engraving artists, dyeing house masters and old folk troupes, and found that this almost lost printing and dyeing skill still lives in Wenzhou, Lishui, Taizhou and other regions in Zhejiang Province. The reporter came to Zhang Qin's home and studio. The room was small but decorated with Chinese cultural characteristics. On the indoor wall, there are blue clip patterns, and some collected folk blue clip quilt covers, embroidered belly pockets and other objects feast the eyes of journalists. Why is Jiavale only a single blue? In the face of the reporter's question, Zhang Qin handed her research achievement "China Blue Clip Valerian" to the reporter. This book, saturated with the author's research efforts, has solved a puzzle that has puzzled the world for a long time. It turns out that in the Tang Dynasty, Jiaxie was colored, which can be confirmed by the unearthed silk fabrics of the Tang Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, cotton planting was popularized, and cotton cloth was printed and dyed by the method of dyeing with indigo dye. Because cotton cloth ate more dyes than silk fabrics, considering the cost, indigo blue dye, which was widely planted and cheap, was used for dyeing with indigo dye, gradually replacing the color dyeing with indigo dye. Due to Zhang Qin's research achievements, the southern Zhejiang Jiavale was finally named "Blue Jiavale". "Don't underestimate them. Although their colors are monotonous and not bright, each one has a deep historical accumulation," Zhang Qin said.

On the ground of Zhang Qin's home, there are some templates for dyeing. Sandwich templates made of hardwood are made in pairs. The inside of the two templates is engraved with a completely symmetrical pattern, which is connected with the small holes drilled around the board. take cloth It can be put into the dye vat to dye with two pieces of wood tightly clamped. Dyes can enter the hollow pattern along the holes and dye the blue cloth. The part tightly clamped by the wood plate is not colored to form a blank background, and blue dye is printed on the fabric to form a beautiful pattern. Most of the blue pinprick patterns are symmetrical, and some are asymmetrical. Zhang Qin told reporters that she had collected rare and precious patterns of asymmetrical blue clip valerian cloth "This asymmetric blue clip valerian technique is complex and can only be realized after several times of printing and dyeing. At present, few artists master this technique." Zhang Qin said that if this technique is not protected and inherited, it will be difficult to see in the future.

How much to lose

Blue dye, an ancient printing and dyeing technique, is bound to shine when its value is discovered again. In August 2010, the "China Blue Clip Vale Art Exhibition" was held in the National Grand Theater, and more than 60 pieces of blue clip Vale collections were provided by Zhang Qin. Her research achievements have been valued by relevant parties. In January 2011, in Beijing Mei Lanfang Grand Theater, she selected some embroidery about Chinese traditional festivals to make the Seven Festival Embroidery Cultural Relics Exhibition, which was successfully held. All this brings Zhang Qin new gains. Lanjiavale is a living fossil of block printing and dyeing in China, which awakens our memory of intangible cultural heritage. At present, it has been included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of Zhejiang Province and the third batch of intangible cultural heritage recommended by the Ministry of Culture.

As a scholar, Zhang Qin's thinking has gone beyond the level of research. She wants to revive the ancient printing and dyeing technique of blue dye and realize its great social, humanistic and cultural values. A grand plan of studying and inheriting the blue folder valerian was brewing in her mind and gradually became clear. The Weaving, Dyeing and Embroidery Art Center of the Chinese Culture Promotion Association was established to widely attract the participation of social forces, establish a blue folder museum, develop blue folder products, and realize industrialization... A series of bold ideas and practices are in progress.

Zhang Qin gave the reporter the blue clip valerian silk scarf gift recently developed. Silk scarves printed with natural indigo dyes will smell the fragrance of fields when held in your hand, and you will also be stained with light blue vegetable dyes. Zhang Qin introduced the fabric samples and clothing Products. Simple, elegant style and folk patterns will make modern clothes designer They have been crying out for joy. She told the reporter that we should not only retain the traditional original taste of the blue folder process, but also introduce the most advanced digital printing technology, copy and innovate the ancient and modern blue folder patterns and processes, achieve social and economic value, and finally let the blue folder go to the market. This is Zhang Qin And her team.