The Brand Of The Brand Rose.

"Bigger, we do not have the advantage of capital, do fine, we have congenital genes."

For some old brand names, "old" is a burden in fierce commercial war.

But one of the oldest clothing brands in China.

In the 80 years of his birth, he tried to find the answer in the "old". At the end of February, the image shop of Nanjing road was opened. In March, the technology center on Tianjin road was also put into operation.

The two shops copied the traditional mode of "front shop after workshop".

On the market positioning, he also intends to return to tradition: focusing on the high-end customization of men's clothing.

The company's "root finding" is also reflected in the spirit: the first generation of the three generations of Dai Zuyi, the 87 year old Mr. Xu Aijuan, 88 year old Xu Aijuan and Li Peihe, 89 years old, who live in Tokyo, Hongkong and Shanghai, have the opportunity to meet the city and share the vicissitudes of life.

Dai Zuyi and Li Peihe were nine years old, and they were all ears and eyes. When they talked about the past, two old men felt quite a lot.

"I still remember the appearance of Li Peihe, the first time he came to the store, wearing a big hat and a long gown."

Dai, 87 years old, is two years younger than Li Peihe, but he entered Xu Dachang twice a year ago. He was a disciple of founder Xu Dachang.

He was an apprentice to the year of 1934. He had been practicing for 6 years.

At the beginning of his creation, western style clothes were popular in Shanghai, but his business was very good.

"When I was student, Mr. Xu had to pack a bag and go outside to do business," Dai Zuyi said. "Then, the popularity of his name became louder and louder.

Sometimes I even have to go to Nanjing by train one week, take the size of the guests and come back all night. "

In order to take the lead, he was hired as the four master at the time to be the tailor's master, so that many people thought that he was a big brother in Shanghai's suit.

After liberation, Xu Dachang and Dai Zuyi set up a pemon Western clothing store in Hongkong and Japan respectively. Li Jiacheng, the richest Asian leader, Li Bingzhe, Bao Yugang, the founder of Samsung, Li Bingzhe, and former Japanese Prime Minister Hata were their customers.

"Unfortunately, Miss Xu did not come back. The last time I met was 20 years ago."

Li Peihe said that although Xu Dachang was named the world's eight major clipping master by American magazine, however, under the impact of the garment industry, the old shop name stuck to the traditional tailor shop mode was in trouble. When he came to Shanghai, Xu wanted to sell Hongkong Promon to Shanghai Promon, but for various reasons, he failed to achieve his wish.

Dai Zuyi told reporters that Japan's business has become increasingly difficult to do, he has given the store to others.

But in recent years, the Shanghai garment company, which has made large scale sales and has annual sales volume of over 300 million yuan, wants to return to tradition and redevelop its customized business.

"In recent years, domestic garment enterprises are struggling to put pressure on costs, which we simply cannot compete with in private enterprises."

Jin Jianhua, general manager of the company, said.

As a typical labor-intensive industry, textile and garment is one of the representatives of "made in China", but at the same time, the profit margin is relatively low. Exporting a shirt can only earn tens of cents.

The world's market share of more than 70% of Chinese clothing, but in the entire industry chain can only be divided into 15-20% profits, and thousands of enterprises for this profit to win the battle, everyone's life is not good.

In the previous round of competition, Shanghai's garment enterprises gradually lost the initiative of the market because of the rising business costs and other reasons.

In the future, with the process of listing and mergers and acquisitions, the power of capital may push them faster to the less competitive side.

Facing many competitors' sales of hundreds of billions or even billions of dollars, he can not help worrying.

When management was trying to expand the market share, a foreign marketing consultant asked Jin Jianhua: why is the more Western-style clothes sold the better? He said, Saville street in central London has concentrated dozens of tailor made men's wear shops. The most famous Davidson Co was founded in 1803. The Royal suits, ministers, governors and sheriff's suits are all customized here. Some other European and American celebrities are also their guests. Here's a standard two piece suit with a price of nearly ten thousand dollars, although it can't be done several times a day, but the profit rate is very high.

Isn't this what PSO did in the 30s and 40s of last century? "Bigger, we don't have the advantage of capital and do fine. We have congenital genes."

Jin Jianhua said he also found that with the increasing demand of customers, the advanced custom tailored suit has the potential of "old trees in spring" in Shanghai.

"Several of the cropping masters, who have been born in Huaihailu Road, have set up a private tailor's shop in high grade areas such as Huaihailu Road.

A set of custom woolen suits is worth ten thousand yuan.

To tell you the truth, it's better to sell the finished product than two thousand or three thousand yuan.

Adhering to ancestral training

Actually, today,

Western-style clothes still account for 5% to 10% of the sales of belomon suits, and a full Chinese tunic is priced at 8000 yuan for the belt, but the average customer is not allowed to enter the door.

Most of the western Shanghai's Palo's custom service factories are "political tasks". Nepal, Ethiopia, France, Korea and other countries are their customers.

He also made official clothes for the APEC summit in Shanghai and the Shanghai cooperation organization, and became the designated clothing manufacturer of the Shanghai Grand Theatre Art Center.

"Simply speaking, 4 steps must be taken to complete a hand-made suit, such as pushing, returning, pulling and finishing.

Jin Jianhua said that during the cultural revolution, he had been renamed "Chinese clothing store", and the custom tailored business has shrunk dramatically.

After the 80s of last century, influenced by the market, he became a member of the garment industry.

However, because of the needs of some special customers, he still retained the traditional craft of hand-made suits, and integrated the suit making process into the production of Lenin and Zhongshan suit.

Li Peihe remembered, "many celebrities in literature and art, like Sun Daolin and statements, have come to the shop to make suits."

In 2007, pimon's sewing technology was listed on the "Shanghai intangible cultural heritage" list. The 8 top technicians were the contemporary successors of the craft. Besides the traditional "three treasures" of ruler, scissors and irons, they also used high technology -- the intelligent clothing CAD integrated application system imported from abroad. After putting the size of the customized guest's body into computer, it can directly test clothes on the human body digital model, change the fabrics and styles, so that the garment manufacturing procedure in the past 72 hours can be reduced to 22 hours quickly.

In the next 3 years, the partnership will make custom tailored business go out of the boudoir, divided into 3 sub cards and 3 grades for customers to choose.

The experience of Japan and Hongkong's Jin Jianhua also sober up her mind.

"The path of advanced custom clothes does not mean returning to the tailor shop in the past."

Craft is important, but design, marketing and service are equally important.

This is the reason why he has put the image store on the road to Nanjing.

He also plans to build a cultural and art design center on the west side of the Shanghai Grand Theatre, with a specially designed hand made customized area, specially designed by special designers and special technicians.

In order to make the technology of custom garments passed down, he also plans to jointly establish "Pei Luo Meng Clothing Education Institute" with universities, which is to train advanced tailors in the future.

However, the idea of making a tailored suit is more than the domestic one, which is trapped in a low profit whirlpool, and hopes to enter the "high-end market" which is still dominated by foreign brands.

Beijing Shun Mei clothing company announced: "ready to concentrate on the development of the price of about 10 thousand yuan of pure hand-made suits production."

So what does this place have to rely on?

In the company's opinion, the answer may include brand, reputation and culture.

Although the 3 successors' Party failed at last, it was a lesson for him.

"The boss of a famous clothing company in China told me that there was something else that they could not buy," he said.

Jin Jianhua said that as one of the oldest and most famous clothing brands in China, the history of 80 years is not only a "intangible heritage" of sewing technology, but also has created a great reputation.

In the eyes of old Shanghai, he may be synonymous with modern, refined and elegant.

More than 60 years ago, the scene was still deeply in the mind of Li Peihe, 89 years old: Nanjing West Road's 284 and two booth, the first floor is a large window with a floor glass.

On Saturday night, when the movie next to the big bright cinema was scattered, and when the guests rushed out, Xu Dachang was wearing a white coat and began cutting the latest suit in the bright light.

This is perhaps the most original brand advertisement at that time.

Xu Dachang, a small tailor born in Dinghai, Zhoushan, has a smart head and meticulous dedication to work. Luckily, he met the trend of Shanghai's first integration into international fashion in the 30s of last century.

In this wind, he established its position in Shanghai by the "three pieces" of a ruler, a pair of scissors and an iron.

After the reform and opening up, the old brand reunited with youth.

"At that time, there was a lot of demand for the public, but the people could do 10 suits every day, and the supply was in short supply. They could only send the same number as the outpatient specialist clinic. Some people came to the gate at five or six in the morning to make a suit."

Li Peihe told reporters.

Today, he has once again encountered the opportunity to re brand culture.

At present, the turning point of China's garment industry has arrived, and a change is quietly occurring.

Under such circumstances, whoever first completes the industrial upgrading will have the initiative in the future market.

How to create greater wealth with limited resources? How to make a successful way of business innovation in Chinese clothing? In the vision of Kim KIN WAH, the inspiration and nutrition in tradition is the key to carry forward and inherit exquisite craftsmanship.

Dai Zuyi told reporters that this brand has devoted all his life to him and Li Peihe.

"Training" is to redouble efforts to improve skills; "Luo" word, namely Luo yarn, meaning cloth; "Meng" contains many Mongolia patronage righteousness.

I hope that this brand can be carried forward without reputation and history. "