Wang Shouchang On The Cultural Spirit Of Chinese Costumes

Professor, Department of philosophy and religion, Peking University; dean of Peking University Culture Academy, President of three Chi Road business school.

The Chinese nation has a history of civilization for thousands of years. The origin and evolution of Chinese costumes is an important angle of view to investigate the history and culture of China.

Dress is not only an important part of national culture, but also a symbol of historical development and social fashion pformation.

Over the past three thousand years, the development of Chinese traditional dress culture has been able to see the interaction between the meridians of national culture and the brotherhood.

"Clothing" and "decoration" are two words that can be explained separately.

The costume of different systems with official uniform is not only a manifestation of material culture, but also a product of the integration of historical, political, economic, military and cultural factors. Through clothing, we can see the different social backgrounds and social conditions of different dynasties.

From the historical documents and cultural relics, we can see the beauty of Chinese costumes and the freshness of history.

First: the first thing to explain today is the concept of "Hua Xia".

It first appeared in the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, and was similar to the word "China" in two words.

What is the concept of "Hua Xia"?

The "Hua" of "Hua" refers to the costumes, the beauty of clothing is "Hua", and "Xia" means etiquette.

"Shang Shu justice" note: "the crown is worn by Hua Zhang Hua, the great power is summer."

Kong Yingda said in Chunqiu Zuo Zhuan justice, "there is a great etiquette in China, so it is called summer."

The so-called Hua Xia is China.

The meaning of civilization.

Zhan Guo CE / Zhao CE

"The Chinese are wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, wise, and wise.

Shi Jie's theory of China in the Song Dynasty

"The heaven is above the earth, and it is located in the lower reaches of the earth.

People who live in heaven and earth, say the four Yi.

It is also in China.

The husband and the Chinese, the monarch and his ministers are self reliant, and the rites and music are made by themselves. They also come out of their own clothes.

Each person has their own customs, teaching and teaching, etiquette and etiquette, clothes and clothes, and all of them live in their homes.

China is located in China.

They are not messed up. "

Kang Youwei in modern times:

China can etiquette is China, China can not etiquette is barbaric.

Yi Di can be etiquette in China.

"Subjugation" and "extinction of the world"

Tan Sitong's poem "Wen Wang"

"Zhou although the old state, its destiny reformed."

The old one is also called "the barbarian".

Conservatism is a barbaric thing, but a new one is China.

China -- harmony, peace, respect, comity,

"Harmony society" -- peaceful coexistence the Great Wall -- cultural symbol

"Soft and distant man" - "Jiashan can't be proud of it, so soft and distant people also."

"Cherish the princes" - "go all the way, so cherish the princes."

"If a distant man refuses to accept it, he will fix it."

Chen Chen, a Tang man, wrote.

"Hua Xin" says, "the Chinese Cathay is in the heart.

Debate is about the trend.

He was born in Zhongzhou and was courtesy and courtesy, which was in line with propriety and righteousness.

Wang Tao, who advocated learning from the West in modern times, still believes that the debate between Hua and Yi is not in and out of the territory, but is also evident in the presence and absence of propriety.

If you are polite, you will be able to enter into China. If you are rude, you can become a foreign country. How can you become a self conceited person?

China is not a geographical concept, not a racial concept, not a blood concept, but a concept of culture and civilization.

This idea should have an impact on Chinese aesthetics and dress design.

The second concept is "left" and "right".

What is "left" and "right"?

The traditional costumes of the Chinese nation are based on the Han people in the Central Plains.

There is a saying: Huangdi clothes, and the right side.

The central Han costume collar is all right, and the one on the left is the right one.

This is the characteristic of Chinese clothing.

In the ancient times, most of the jackets were cross lapse laptops, while the Central Plains people advocated the right side. They were accustomed to the right side of the jacket and were right-handed.

Besides the left side of the jacket, Hu's clothes and feet are obviously different from those of the Central Plains.

Right Han is a symbol of Han nationality, which is always retained by Han clothing.

"Left" generally refers to the costumes of ethnic minorities outside the Central Plains.

In some historical periods, the Han nationality was influenced by other ethnic groups.

In the modern Chinese dictionary, there are two explanations: the first is the meaning of the skirt, and the two is the pillow mat for sleeping.

We are going to talk about the topic of skirts.

"The Analects of Confucius" asked: "be left behind"; "Han Shu end army biography": "the general will take the Yue, alone in the curtain"; the ticket is riding against the Jing, Kun evil right.

Tang Yan Shi Gu notes: "right, from China."

Liu Baonan's Justice: "summer dress is right."

From the above citation, we can see the characteristics of "right" and "left".

Right side is a feature that Han clothing always keeps.

So the right side becomes the symbol of Han costume.

On the contrary, the clothes of some ethnic minorities in ancient China are left to the left, which are different from those in the Central Plains.

Therefore, the left side is used to refer to the rule of the foreign race.

Therefore, Confucius said, "Guan Zhongxiang, Huan Gong, the rulers of the princes, and the masses of the people, the people are now being given the support of them.

It means that if there is no Guanzhong, we will have to become slaves of different races, wearing clothes of the left side and wearing their hair. (in addition, the left is also used to refer to the dead, using the left to show the difference between yin and Yang in the murals and paintings of the ancestors.

This is the original meaning.

The left front is closed to the right axillary frenulum, and the right flaps are covered inside the right side.

Vice versa.

In ancient times, the Han people in the Central Plains wore their skirts to the right.

"Left" generally refers to the costumes of ethnic minorities outside the Central Plains.

The Han people are influenced by the foreign race, and also have the situation of the left one. In addition, the traditional Han custom is that the clothes of the deceased are left with no buttons, instead of cloth buttons.

The third concept is "cultural spirit".

What is the "cultural spirit" of the Chinese nation?

Culture -- "human culture" in the book of changes

The American traditional dictionary: "the sum total of the behavior patterns, arts, religious beliefs, other organizations and all other human activities and thinking activities of a human group or ethnic group."

Civilization -- the "civilization of the world" in the book of changes -- "articles and light"

We discuss the spirit of Chinese clothing and Chinese culture, the spirit and aesthetic consciousness of this inner life, and how to sublimate in our present era in the face of the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation.