Exclusive Interview With Zhang Zhifeng, The First Chinese Luxury Goods

NE TIGER is a brand of fur, wedding dress, evening wear and Chinese clothing series.

In the 2011 China national image film, which appeared on New York Times square in 2011, stars such as Song Zuying, Zhang Ziyi, Zhang Zilin and so on are all dressed up in the world of NE TIGER.

"China Wind" is the label of NE TIGER, which stems from Zhang Zhifeng's fascination with Chinese traditional culture, and spends a lot of money and energy to excavate traditional Chinese crafts. Many of the original treasure class crafts that were originally collected in museums are newly created by Zhang Zhi Feng's innovation, and have landed on the international luxury stage.

In Zhang Zhifeng's view, the Chinese aesthetics and philosophy of ink and wash landscape, national beauty and heaven and man are the way out for local clothing luxury.

Traditional technology T rebirth

Reporter: NE TIGER has been China International for nearly 10 years.

Why did he choose the age of the Southern Song Dynasty to be the design leader this week?

Zhang Zhifeng: the culture of the Song Dynasty has an indifferent and elegant flavor. This show is a classic dialogue about culture and beauty, flowers and fashion.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, everyone loved flowers and loved flowers not only to express their passion for life, but also to worship nature.

The emergence of Neo Confucianism in Song Dynasty is a deep and penetrating view of a certain spiritual situation. This aesthetic emotion is the refraction of the broad-minded, detached, deep and restrained attitude towards life in the Song Dynasty.

At the scene, we use song huzong's three famous paintings, "Qin Qin Tu", "Lotus diagram" and "Rui he Tu" as the background. Under the sound of the Guqin master Li Xiangting, we use 39 sets of Chinese costumes to show the understanding and understanding of the Song Dynasty and even Chinese culture.

In fact, this is the meaning of Chinese clothing. It is the pursuit of NE TIGER, advocating natural reality, abandoning the carving and pretense, and taking the natural simplicity as the model of ideal beauty.

Reporter:

Always doing something unexpected, for example, let the nearly lost four thousand years of history, "saint of the fabric" Sheng silk reborn.

Do you have a special attachment to these traditional crafts?

Zhang Zhifeng: in the the Imperial Palace of Taiwan in 2003, I saw the Song Dynasty silk flower and bird show. The finished products were both positive and negative, with elegant colors and exquisite techniques, which was very shocking at that time.

More than 1000 years ago, the Song Dynasty was the golden age of silk.

In the Song Dynasty, the weaver weavers used the realistic and vivid paintings as the manuscript, such as "Song Kesi Cui Yu Qiu He", weaving a corner of lotus pond, a kingfisher standing on the lotus canopy, watching the fish in the water, natural and vivid, lifelike and vivid.

Moreover, it has a fine color, and makes the animal's dexterous look, flower leaf turn and flicker perfectly. It can completely match the paintings of the Song Dynasty.

In fact, silk is not a embroidery process, but a weaving process, making silk thread with raw silk, making it into a weft thread by using colored silk, and weaving it with the skill of "through the broken weft". It has the effect of carving and carving, and is full of two-sided and three-dimensional feeling. Therefore, it won the eternal praise of "knitted silk".

Of course, not only is it silk, but I have special feelings for traditional handicrafts in China.

For example, cloud brocade and embroidery are all ancient art and luxury goods.

In 2009, China's long rope knot art was also moved onto the international fashion stage by NE TIGER.

Chinese style cloud shoulder collar, Yuehua skirt, pleated dry skirt, and the form of Chinese League fan, palace lantern, Ruyi and armor have been re interpreted.

Reporter: apart from inheritance, innovation is also a big topic. How can NE TIGER make traditional elements recognize modern society?

Zhang Zhifeng: we have been making this kind of attempt. We skillfully used the combination of George, double Palace satin, Italy brocade, lace and brocade. We also reinterpreted the western half cup dress, skeleton bra, pleated skirt and fishtail skirt.

Yun Brocade "Phoenix clothing" is a typical design representative work.

We use Phoenix as decorative pattern, and use the most luxurious weaving method of Dragon Robe in the brocade brocade, which only tens of craftsmen spend 800 hours in making fabric.

At the same time, "Feng Yi" adopted the top fur of the Purple Club in Copenhagen, Denmark, with nearly 50 thousand SWAROVSKI crystal.

On the night of 2006 bazaar Star Charity Night, the "Phoenix clothing" made a high price of 166666 yuan.

In recent years, many stars at home and abroad have chosen to wear NE. TIGER costumes for various international occasions. The two Prince Joachim of Denmark, in 2007, had made the NE / TIGER high grade Chinese dress and fur for his Royal Princess as an engagement gift. It can be said that NE TIGER had a good balance between Chinese and Western aesthetics.

Reshaping the beauty of etiquette in "clothes country"

Reporter: how does the international fashion industry evaluate these Chinese style designs?

Zhang Zhifeng: "Chinese style" has attracted the attention of the global fashion industry. Chinese clothing culture has begun to influence the global fashion industry.

In September of this year, NE TIGER was the only Chinese brand in the Italian fashion summit. In Milan, the Chinese fashion dress, the chairman of Zegna, the president of Gucci, the chairman of Prada, the creative director of Fendi, and many other Italy fashion celebrities expressed their admiration.

For a long time, fashion is being led and led by Westerners.

Now, many Chinese elements have been widely used by foreign designers. French and Italy designers are using traditional Chinese crafts such as brocade, silk, embroidery and so on.

Because China is unique and worth learning from abroad.

For example, the essence of our ethnic minorities' clothing is inexhaustible. In my design, I often draw from Chinese, Tibetan, Miao, Dai, Yi, Naxi and other national artistic elements, and use western three-dimensional tailoring to foil their connotations and charm.

Reporter: building local luxury goods in China is the ideal of many entrepreneurs. What qualifications do you think a real Chinese luxury goods should have?

Zhang Zhifeng: first of all, fantasy.

The charm of luxury goods largely affects people's emotional needs. It is different from the needs of life. Luxury corresponds to a desire and a yearning.

In addition, to possess the highest quality, not only the inner quality is excellent, the appearance or appearance should also be obvious and exquisite, but the perceptible essence that can be seen and touched.

Of course, luxury goods in China also need to be scarce and expensive.

More important, to be the leader of the global fashion, the latest trend that is released every year is the source of inspiration for the global fashion world.

I hope that the fashion created by NE TIGER has vitality, from popular to popular for more than ten years, and then to the never outdated fashion, from a trendy creation to a style laid down, and eventually evolved into a new classic.