Designer'S Brand Development Dilemma: High Cost, Lack Of Institutional Support

"P style=" text-align: left ", since its opening in April 10th, Du Wenxia, the media leader of Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee, has been filled with media interviews every day.

The "first lady" brought about the continuous spread of domestic goods. China's original "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "designer" /a "brand has also become" a "target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ ".

Shanghai fashion week, which had only been popular in fashion circles, was particularly lively in April this year.

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< p > however, all this has just begun for domestic a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp" > designer brand < /a >, and creating a mature brand that can be accepted by the market is by no means a day.

Problems such as high cost, lack of institutional support, low consumer acceptance and narrow channels have been bothering China's next "exception".

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< p style= "text-align: center > > lack of support, designers can not find" organization "< /p >.

One of the designers of the fashion week in Shanghai, P, is a Chinese designer named Wang Haizhen who has shocked the London Fashion week.

After graduating from the Central Academy of art and design, Saint Martin founded Wang Haizhen's personal fashion brand "Haizhen Wang" in 2010 and won the Fashion Fringe award.

A handsome bonus, a free studio in Somerset House, and a fashion show on the London Fashion week for the next four quarters.

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< p > compared with the more mature designer training system abroad, China's < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > Fashion Designer < /a > looks a bit like "fly away".

The independent designer Reine Ren, who returned to France, told the great wisdom that because of the lack of an organization platform similar to the British Fashion Fringe and the French fashion industry association, independent designers were hard to get support in the early stage, and many good seedlings had not yet been put into production and aborted halfway.

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< p > "the main function of this organization is to carry out initial marketing and channel docking."

Reine Ren indicates.

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Ding Wei, vice chairman and chief executive officer of Seven Days, the international designer brand integration store, also believes that there are many original design competitions in China, but the commercial support after the appraisal is too weak, or only improves the popularity of the brand. P

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"P", such as Shanghai fashion week, has only begun to focus on domestic designer brands only five years ago.

The head of the organizing committee recalled the first fashion week 12 years ago when it said that the platform was mainly aimed at developing the Chinese market for international brands and letting consumers understand one way of these brands.

However, because of the difference between the four fashion week and the international fashion week, Shanghai fashion week began to strengthen the investment of local brands.

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This is also noticed in this year's Shanghai fashion week P.

According to Du Wenxia, the Shanghai fashion week has upgraded from the past "display platform" for the first time to set up the "experience Museum" for the designer brand in Jingan District subway shops, and strengthen the support of sales channels.

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< p > < strong > cost is high, and profit designer brand is very few. < /strong > < /p >

< p > besides Wang Haizhen, an independent designer with a reputation overseas, Ji Cheng, Qiu Hao, Li Hongyan, Wang Chuqiao, Shangguan Zhe, Jia Bei, Han Lulu and so on are also hot celebrities in Chinese fashion designer circles.

These designers have certain brand operation experience in the industry, some even have some stores, but few of them can make profits.

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< p > Liu Yinfeng, Secretary General of Shanghai Textile Association, once told the media: "domestic designers create very few brands, and they can survive and develop less after creation. The designer's brand that can really make money in the circle will not exceed 30%."

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< p > Reine Ren pointed out that from the beginning of clothing design, and then put into production, development channels, to the last terminal sales, every step requires a lot of manpower and material input.

After this round of elimination, the rest of the designer brands are talking about how to make profits.

"A designer, from designing to selling all the links, is done by herself, and she is too busy at the moment," she admits.

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< p > take Enjoy Young, founded in 2008, for example. At present, the brand has 17 stores, but it still fails to make profits.

The exceptions, such as Jiangnan Buyi, Su ran, and so on, have already experienced nearly ten years of market incubation.

Among them, the exception was founded in 1996, which is known as the first designer brand in China, and has obvious advantages in the accumulation of funds and connections.

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< p > a domestic designer brand insider revealed: "most of the sales revenue needs to be invested in the next production process.

Although stores help greatly enhance brand image, we still have no funds to operate.

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< p > Ding Wei said that the funding problem is a very big threshold for independent designers.

"There is no money for designers and designers, but money is for mass production, such as clothing giants in Fujian, but there is no personality and brand," he said.

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< p > in recent years, due to the rising price of raw materials, the order size of designer brand "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "dress less than /a" is not competitive, resulting in the rise of the price of these brands, and some even comparable to luxury brands.

Faced with such a high price, consumers sometimes shrink from it.

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< p > strong > high price, market acceptance still needs to be trained < /strong > /p >

< p > as one of the most concentrated local independent designers, Shanghai, La Vie, Helen Lee and Insh of Li Hongyan, Neither Nor of Wang Chuqiao and other famous designers have set up their own stores in fashionable fashion shopping places such as Xintiandi fashion, Tianzifang or Fumin road.

On the 14 th of this month, great wisdom went to these three places for observation. At the end of the week, the traffic volume of the three places was not small, and even a shop appeared crowded phenomenon, but most of them were "Window Shopping (window shopping)", and fewer pactions.

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< p > a customer in a designer's brand store at Fumin Road, the red irregular knitted dress in her opponent hesitated. She felt that the price of 4500 yuan was enough to buy some famous luxury brands.

"Although the style is special, it is not very practical," she said, and then left the shop.

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< p > great wisdom inquired about the location of two designer stores to their customers, all of which indicated that the monthly income was above two and thirty thousand, and the age was between 25-40 years old.

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< p > industry insiders point out that independent designer brand is the most important reason for selling goods because of its high cost and competitive price.

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< p > < strong > channel narrow, designer brand collection shop emerges < /strong > /p >

< p > in the absence of support and capital and the market still need time to accept the added value of design, the designer brand store has sprung up and has solved some sales channels for many famous designers.

Among them, Seven Days, peppermint glutinous rice scallion, pillars and OneByOne are the most large-scale.

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"P": "it's too much energy and money to start the shop, the doorsill is too high, designer brand products tend to be vulnerable to buyers from overseas," Ding Wei said: "because of China's lack of buy Hand shopping malls, dealers as the embryonic form of brand collection, for the vast majority of designer brands in the initial major sales channels."

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< p > OneByOne is the first independent designer brand collection store in China. It was founded by designer Qiu Hao and Wang Chuqiao in Changle Road, Shanghai in 2003, and now has chain stores in many cities.

Seven Days is an international brand collection store integrating domestic and foreign independent designer brands. It was founded in 2005. It was wholly owned by Shaoxing Tianlong, a fabric trader.

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Compared with P, insiders revealed that peppermint glutinous rice, founded by CEO, Hong Huang, China's interactive media group, is currently not highly linked with the market. It is exploring more designer culture and supporting the designer brand with the nature of public welfare promotion.

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< p > independent designer Reine Ren is the signing designer of Seven Days, placing her product in the store of Seven Days, selling it according to sales.

At present, Seven Days has 6 independent brands, and cooperative designer brands are two and thirty.

Among them, domestic designers accounted for 75%.

There are 16 stores nationwide, and 8 in Shanghai. It is already quite large, and some stores have begun to make profits.

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< p > there are also some designer brands that are invited to "buyout" by brand stores.

The brand collection shop may enter a series of products from the designer, and sell it on its own.

But in doing so, the demand for the buyer of the store will be greatly improved.

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Shen Jun, general manager of Cci Capital Ltd, Shanghai Rui Yong enterprise, points out that buyers need to have many years of vision and acuity about fashion, and experience in operation, so as to ensure that the products purchased are marketable, and if they fail to sell, there will be plenty of inventory risks. P

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< p > Ding Wei believes that no matter which way it is sold, designers need to make their own brand promotion.

"In North China, there are many creative designers.

But because of the capital problem, it is difficult to see the effect in terms of production and promotion, "he said." optical design skills are far from enough, and building a brand with market needs to be managed and managed. "

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< p > insiders estimate that the annual sales of China's independent designer brand market account for less than 1% of the total clothing market, including wholesale and retail sales.

Assuming that the entire clothing market is 1 trillion and 400 billion, even with the exception of such an annual sales of seven or eight billion brand, independent designer market is less than 14 billion.

In addition, there are about 100-200 independent brand designers.

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< p > strong > many experts have indicated that there is still much room for future development of such a scale.

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< p > for the recent events of "first lady", Ding Wei believes that it is most valuable to publicize the brand with consumption behavior.

"This event has laid a good foundation for the future commercialization of Chinese independent designers," he said. "In the short term, a few specific brands will benefit from it.

In the long run, the public's attention to the independent designer's brand will also be greatly improved, which will help the commercialization of designer's brand.

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P, also held in the fashion week, held a student works show at the Sino French Fashion Institute of fashion, and also optimistic about the future development of the designer industry in China.

Bastet Wei, head of marketing and media, said that more and more institutions are currently engaged in fashion industry education, and the fashion business courses are also very professional and subdivided, such as luxury management courses, fashion buyers in service courses, etc.

Colleges and universities are also actively providing Chinese local designers with project plans for brand marketing planning to help them build up their own brand.

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