Lessons Learnt From Japan'S Decline In Clothing Industry Are Worth Learning From China.
< p > in the previous articles, the reporters' vision basically did not leave Jimo. As the end of this series of reports, the sixth issue seems to have little to do with Jimo.
This is the speech of a guest during the 2013 fashion forum of Ao Shan Bay. He is from Japan and tells about Japan's experience and lessons.
And his viewpoint is worth thinking about Chinese a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing < /a > industry practitioners.
Therefore, this period will be carefully edited for his readers.
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< p > in Japan, 95% of the garments are not produced in Japan; the products printed with the word "made in Japan" are less than 5%.
All the clothes I wear are Japanese brands, but they are all "made in China".
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< p > nowadays, there are three kinds of products that are labeled "made in Japan". One is the so-called "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "designer" /a "brand"; the two is to strive to maintain the traditional brand; another is the European brand commissioned by Japan.
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< p > as a manufacturing industry, every production worker is a skilled worker and needs long-term training.
When there is a fault in the middle, it is very difficult to recover.
Now many countries want to get the products of "made in Japan", but unfortunately, we have no way to meet this demand.
Because our skilled workers no longer exist.
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< p > now, it is not only the garment manufacturing industry, including fabric development, < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > textile < /a > industry, Japan's manufacturing advantages are also becoming weaker and weaker.
You know, twenty or thirty years ago, Japan's sophisticated clothing manufacturing technology was ahead of the rest of the world and dominated the world with its huge market.
But unfortunately, the advantages that they once had had completely disappeared.
This is worth considering by Chinese counterparts.
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< p > < strong > culture has different understanding of manufacturing. < /strong > < /p >
< p > in the past 42 years, I have been working in a company with "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp "clothing brand < /a" as the core.
My work includes product development, brand planning, production, even the combination of resources, sales and so on.
Because of the particularity of my work, I am living in this industry and I can see the development of this industry objectively.
< /p >
< p > remember a long time ago when I was working in a brand in Paris, one day, a Japanese team specializing in garment manufacturing came to our store.
Because they are very professional, when they come in, they will look at every a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothes < /a > lining, then evaluate the structure of clothes.
Then they came to the conclusion: "these clothes are too rough, much worse than those made in Japan."
This shows that the high level of clothing manufacturing in Japan at that time reflected, of course, the arrogance of Japanese.
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< p > now, it is because of cultural differences that Japanese people will have such an assessment.
Because Western costumes are quite different from Japanese ones.
At that time, Japanese clothing was mostly made by hand sewing on the plane, so they paid special attention to the excellent handwork.
When they came to Paris, they looked at Western-style clothes from the perspective of their own culture.
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< p > < < a href= > http://www.91se91.com/news/ > > Suit > /a > is the core of three-dimensional cutting. It stresses the expression of human body curve. Therefore, during the fitting process, the tailor will adjust the details of the dress according to the shape of the wearer.
This seems to be too rough for the Japanese, and they do not understand the way to solve the problem at the scene.
It took a long time for Japanese people to understand the essence of western style culture.
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< p > even if the "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "high-grade fabric" /a ", such as wool, will be rough or inferior because of the different manufacturing level. On the contrary, if some natural and simple fabrics are carefully sewed, it can also reflect the low-key luxury.
This is the charm of clothing brand.
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< p > clothing is supported by culture, and the understanding of each nation is different.
Even the same materials, but because of the different experience of sewing, the last brand culture is different.
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< p > < strong > brand is the most difficult to create is "feeling" < /strong > /p >
When I was working in Italy, I went to a very famous brand to see their last garment inspection process in P.
Factories have final product inspection procedures, because management is standardized, so testing is also carried out with quantified standards.
But this Italy brand is different.
It adopted a very great method: putting products on the body for inspection.
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P often hears a buyer. When buying a clothing brand, he says, "Oh, no, I don't feel like the atmosphere of this brand. I don't feel its characteristics."
Compared with the inspection standards such as size and delivery time, the "feeling" standard is the most difficult.
For our clothing enterprises, this is the most difficult part of innovation.
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< p > with the advent of the digital era, all the < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing products < /a > can be made and defined by advanced technology.
In this way, the standardization of products is very easy to achieve, but unfortunately, people are emotional animals, how to make consumers experience the perceptual part and create different atmosphere and feeling, which is the core of the brand.
Consumers' demand for a brand is not limited to the so-called version, quality control and data control.
< /p >
< p > leisure clothing is becoming an inevitable trend in garment industry.
Leisure is closely related to people's daily life and culture.
We can not simply use material production as the standard, but we need to inject a feeling into the product and use a "feeling" to manage the brand. I think this is an important topic for the future manufacturing industry.
< /p >
The appearance, color, pattern and so on that can be seen on the surface of P are all visual. These hidden contents are all related to culture. This is the connotation that products and brands need to possess.
I attribute it to "brand expressiveness" rather than the brand's manufacturing power.
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< p > < strong > guard against the creation void created by the cavity creation < /strong > /p >
P once again, I went to a clothing brand enterprise in New York. All the products of this brand were not produced in the United States, and all the orders were sent out.
In Manhattan, New York, it has a large office space, and all of them work in planning and designing.
But in New Jersey, near New York, it has a huge factory.
I am surprised to find that there are over 450 workers there. They are all workers who produce samples.
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< p > the work done by these workers is to analyze every production process in detail, then make it data oriented, and then seek suitable manufacturers around the world for processing.
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< p > and in the course of my work in the commercial office, I found that a qualitative change took place in the processing industry in the middle and late 90s of last century.
Many clothing brands entrust us with foreign orders and materials import and so on.
At that time, I was responsible for many work orders sent to Korea, but with the improvement of China's manufacturing level, many products began to move to China for production.
< /p >
< p > with the increasing demand of Japanese market, retail industry is paying more and more attention to low price competition.
In order to meet the market demand, many manufacturing enterprises in Japan continuously reduce their costs.
In order to reduce costs, they can only issue orders abroad, which makes the Japanese garment manufacturing industry become more and more empty.
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After the bubble economy burst in Japan, the price of land and commercial real estate in P has been declining. This has led many manufacturers to create their own brands.
However, when they create brand, most of them take the market as the core, which makes the phenomenon of brand homogenization very serious.
The development of large, interconnected and popular brands has resulted in a hole in the manufacturing industry.
< /p >
What is the added value of clothing brands? < p > this is something worth pondering.
What I want to say is that if the manufacturing industry pursues to reduce costs, it will create holes in manufacturing.
If creative industries pursue lower costs, our creation will become empty.
< /p >
Labor costs in China P are also rising. If China's clothing industry only thinks about manufacturing costs, the hole in the manufacturing industry will also appear.
China's manufacturing industry should seriously consider investing in wisdom effectively.
How to establish our R & D center and how to manage effective and reasonable manufacturing cost and creative cost is a problem we need to solve.
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< p > finally, I would like to say that clothing is after all a technology centered product. If we lose excellent skilled workers, the clothing industry will not be able to develop.
However, the requirements for technicians are different now.
They need to have a good sense of consciousness, not just hardware material technology.
For example, how to arrange patterns on the fabric, how to mix colors and so on, all need perceptual awareness.
In my opinion, the cultivation of the wisdom of technical personnel and the cultivation of sensibility will become an important part of the clothing industry.
At the same time, for the garment manufacturing industry, every worker is not only a simple skilled worker, but also a fashion learner.
Because clothing products are not like appliances, they are not emotional and emotional.
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