Dialogue: Designer John Galiano
John Galiano (John Galliano) has served as the design director of Givenchy, Dior and Margiela (Margiela).
Throughout his career (including the low season), he was willing to integrate other countries' cultures into his own works.
This year's "China, Through the Looking Glass" (May 7th to August 16th) exhibition at Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York aims to explore the impact of Chinese art on Western fashion and collect interviews with major designers, and then catalog them.
Gary arano was invited by the director of the museum to explain his love for Chinese art.
Andrew Bolton: compared with other designers and exhibitions in the catalogue, you prefer to think that China inspires your work. What was China's attraction to you at the beginning?
Galiano: I have a crush on Chinese culture.
In retrospect, I think it was because I knew little about it at that time.
Before I visited China, I was a fantasies, attracted by the sense of danger and mystique in China's Hollywood movies.
After that, I learned about real China through studying and studying Chinese painting, literature and architecture.
My design work includes in-depth research, and I prepare a scrapbook for every new series, with my inspirational images and my new ideas.
To put it simply, my initial interest in China came from movies, which were attracted by the description of fantasy and romanticism.
Andrew Bolton: designers usually learn about China through movies. This is the proposition of the exhibition: Watching China through the lens. Hollywood movies from 30s to 40s, Anna May Wong (Huang Liushuang, Chinese American actress) were especially a source of inspiration.
Galiano: the images of Huang Liu frost often appear in my scrapbook.
Her appearance was very tempting and possessed a strong sense of mystery.
Andrew Bolton She seems to be the inspiration for your 1993 clothing series "Olivia the Filibuster", including several improved cheongsam with spiral spirals, reminiscent of the shape of Huang Liu frost in the movie Limehouse Blues.
Galiano: indeed.
She was the first Mousika I designed for those clothes. The fabric was black and shiny like licorice, and the dragon pattern was embroidered with gold foil.
Part of the skirt is designed for the opening of the thigh root, so when the girl walks, she opens the fork and slashes one line and closes one, showing her body in a vague way, like throwing a wink.
Andrew Bolton: your 1997 Dior high Ding series includes two Chinese cloaks, one is pink and the other is yellow green. The pink one reminds me of the cloak worn by Huang Liu cream in a handmade coloured promotional photo.
Galiano: Yes, that picture is one of my references.
I always liked the Chinese shawl with long Tassels and exquisite embroidery.
Nicole Kidman attended the Oscar prize presentation ceremony in 1997. It was a yellow green skirt version.
Andrew Bolton: your original Dior series has Chinese elements, while Dior herself is deeply influenced by Chinese elements. In 1948, the title of his style was "China", "Beijing" and "Shanghai". Later, he named several clothes "China Night", "China blue", "Hongkong" and "Chinese groceries". During your work for Dior, are those styles above yours? China Series Clothing brings inspiration?
Galiano
My Dior dress does always refer to Dior's design.
They really inspire me, but follow my thread of thread.
Andrew Bolton: you are like Andersen in the fashion world. In 1997, the autumn and winter series of Dior made people feel back to Shanghai in 1930s.
Galiano: the inspiration was the Chinese Poster and the calendar girl in Shanghai in 30s.
Cigarette advertisements, toilet water advertisements and beauty products advertisements all draw beautiful women wearing cheongsam, which makes people yearn for it.
Andrew Bolton: the series includes several cheongsam style dresses. The traditional cheongsam is straight cut, but you are slash cut.
Galiano: Cheongsam is already a very sexy dress, but I want to emphasize its sexuality through oblique cutting, highlighting the body lines of women.
The fabric I use is very beautiful: like satin, light silk with lace and heavy silk for tie and tie.
Andrew Bolton: the reason you ask is that your design is not for political gain, but for personal interests. For example, the 1998 Dior autumn winter high definition series "Dior Orient Express" is a kind of self expression. One of the skirts reminds me of Huang Liu cream wearing a diagonal breasted jacket and traditional skirt.
Galiano: the inspiration of the skirt comes from the portrait of the elders of the German Renaissance painter Lucas Cranach, which can be seen from the outline and embroidery position.
However, I do decorate the jewelry of Miao people in China.
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