Exclusive Interview With L', Claireur, Founder Of Famous Buyer Shop In France
fashion
It's a business. The time and energy you put into it are sunk costs.
Even in a romantic looking fashion industry, you have to first figure out what you want to achieve, who your target customers are and what your target retailers are, so that you can advance on the right path.
In mid April, the founder and Trano of L'claireur, a famous buyer shop in France?
Clothes & Accessories
Armand Hadida, the founder and creative director of the exhibition, received an exclusive interview with reporters after the fashion week in Shanghai.
In the international fashion world, L'e claireur is called "the originator of a buyer's shop".
Armand is called the founder of the "buyer shop".
The French born in 1950 had a gray curly hair and strong accent in English.
In 1980, he and his wife Martine Hadida opened their first buyer shop in the basement with only 28 square meters in Champs Elysees. They boldly launched Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Helmut Lang, Prada and Ann Demeulemeester.
Designer
Works.
Now they have 6 branches in France.
In 1990, the first L'e claireur store moved to Le Marais in Paris, becoming the initial advocate of the retail concept of combining interior design, furniture and fashion.
Another innovation of Armand in fashion industry is the establishment of Trano clothing exhibition.
This fashion exhibition, founded in 1991, aims to build an exchange platform for young designers and fashion buyers. It is the world's top fashion exhibition. The Trano fashion trade exhibition is held in Paris every quarter, and then entered the New York market in 2015.
"A buyer's shop is a link, a part of clothing sales. Now even fashion week is changing from holding time to schedule, not to mention a buyer's shop."
During the interview, the two most important words mentioned by Armand were "change" and "innovation".
In 2015, Armand opened a new L'e claireur buyer shop in the Saint Ouen area around Paris.
Unlike other buyer shops, the store uses large screens that are rolled up and down in the entire space of the floor to ceiling.
For example, if a customer looks at the newly released citron yellow handbag of Paris, he can place the order immediately, and the product will soon be delivered to his hand.
"We can now open branches and apply this platform anywhere, and at the same time, inventory can be completely concentrated in Paris," Armand said. "This is contrary to the traditional shopping environment, but e-commerce has also brought positive changes to the company. Online sales have accounted for 20% of the total profit, and it is rising at an annual rate of double."
"Fashion is a way of life including food, music, clothing, and so on. Its strength lies in remolding people."
Armand is not a professional buyer. His starting date goes back to 70s.
At that time, he worked at a high-end boutique at the age of more than 20.
"At the beginning of the creation of the L claireur buy shop, I established the bold idea of" doing everything except what anyone else has done. "
Armend said that besides his wife Martine's overall support for his fashion career, his family was involved in fashion related work.
Nine years later, CEO, the elder son of Michael, served as the CEO of Trano. He founded a shopping website called Betoosee. Her son, David, succeeded her daughter Wendy as a buyer in London, and Meryl was in charge of Losangeles's business.
He repeatedly stressed the importance of education, and suggested that young designers accept global art education. "Painting, sculpture and photography are all indispensable parts of learning. They are the way to express themselves and to mold themselves."
At the same time, he also encouraged these young and ambitious designers to mobilize their enthusiasm, learn to think and produce something unusual to adapt to the rapid development of the fashion industry.
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Reporter: L'e claireur is called the originator of the buyer shop. Why did he want to do this shop?
Armand Hadida: when I started to get involved in the fashion industry, I had nothing at all and I didn't know what the result would be.
When I entered the fashion industry, I didn't set boundaries for myself and didn't want to copy others' things.
I think the pressure of risk will help talented people to achieve better results.
At that time, I wanted to create a retail way different from 60 years ago to help designers, especially young designers, to improve their designs and make them more personal.
Interviewer: what do you think is unique to L'Eclaireur? Will it be imitated by others?
Armand Hadida: originality.
We are not just a retail brand, we sell lifestyle.
In Shanghai, there are fashion shops selling coffee, books, men's wear and women's wear.
It's great to integrate all the things about life aesthetics, and it is also a good direction for the development of fashion retailers.
Reporter: you once said that the future buyer shop, no clothing in the shop, may be more like a meeting place, a place that inspires inspiration, makes people infinite fantasy and full of surprises. Why do I say so?
Armand Hadida: This is the change I said. Many boutiques fail because they do not know how to adapt to the development and change of the market.
At that time, boutique salesmen would use good suggestions and services to help consumers, but now consumers are quite different from those at that time. Fashion shops must make changes.
The future of the shop is definitely bright, but we are looking forward to a new buyer shop, not only related to fashion, but also a way of life experience.
Buying shop should make people feel comfortable, confident and bring good mood through clothing, daily necessities, good catering and other services. This is the buyer shop that I understand.
Reporter: as technology advances, more and more people choose to shop online, but in the physical store can still provide the experience of touch and try. Will the future entity buyer shop be affected in the development of technology?
Armand Hadida: as I just said, fashion itself is unique and changeable, so I am not afraid of the influence of the Internet. Of course, the Internet related business is very good.
But nothing can replace clothing and retail stores to replace direct contact between clothing and body.
Reporter: the buyer shop is largely determined by the taste of its owners and managers. Do you think that talent is the core of the buyer's shop? If the older generation of people retire behind the scenes, how can the successor maintain the brilliance of the buyer's shop?
Armand Hadida: when you enter a buyer's shop, you feel very comfortable and find that the owner's taste is very much to your heart. What you are looking for is that you will definitely sit down for a cup of coffee and try a jacket or skirt, which is the charm of the buyer's shop.
The successor is the owner of the buyer's shop. If he is excellent and tastes good, business can continue to flourish, but when his direction is out of order, he can't satisfy the needs of customers, and can't satisfy customers, so the business can't go on, which depends on the operators.
Reporter: what do you think about the men's and women's clothing market and China's fashion industry?
Armand Hadida: compared with the development trend of over saturated or even bad follow ups in the women's wear market, the men's wear market is still a new field to be developed. Designers are expected to seek their own expression here. For the Chinese fashion market, I think the young generation of Chinese designers should go abroad to see the wider real world and make up for the defects of the virtual world.
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