Can Burberry Regain Attention By "Stamp Marketing"?
Fashion is an attention economy, and the age of social media is even more significant.
Now luxury brands are no longer hesitant. They are determined to put aside their prejudices and resolutely join the stream competition.
Last Friday, two buses with Burberry brand printed Thomas Burberry Monogram were running through the streets of downtown Shanghai.
Unlike in the past, this is not Burberry's advertising on bus buses, but a "stamp parade" specially designed by Burberry.
They do not end, but become part of the urban landscape, attracting the attention of pedestrians along the road.
In the meantime, the whole body of the bus with TB printing was moved to the street by mobile landmarks. At the same time, Hangzhou Qianjiang new town also staged a large-scale lighting show with TB printing as its theme.
The tall building of Qianjiang new town has been projected on the Burberry brand logo and TB printing, which has become a high-profile urban landscape that night.
Burberry's high-profile moves in two luxury intensive cities are mainly aimed at the latest Burberry Thomas Burberry Monogram printing campaign.
That night, the Burberry "exclusive logo kingdom" limited boutique opened at the IAPM shopping mall in Shanghai and the IFC store in Shanghai Golden State Center. The new logo printing (TB printing) was spread over the whole series through the series of new products.
Burberry paid special attention to this series and invested heavily.
Previously, the brand creative director, Riccardo Tisci, especially worked with British photographer Nick Knight, art director Peter Saville, stylist Katy England and supermodel he Cong to launch exclusive logo series advertising blockbuster.
Burberry flagship stores, including the flagship store of the Kerry Center in Jingan District, Shanghai and the flagship store in South Korea, have also undergone a "makeover" and collectively replaced the TB printing interior decoration.
Shanghai campaign invited the brand spokesperson Dongyu Zhou, actor Chen Kun, He Cong and other stars to wear the Thomas Burberry Monogram print list to attend the opening party.
Shortly after that, Burberry held a new series of celebration activities at the flagship store in Seoul, South Korea, and invited a series of popular Korean celebrities such as Eom Hongsig, the brand ambassador.
Up to now, micro-blog's topic #ThomasBurberryMonogram# has read more than 30 million, and its discussion volume has exceeded 100 thousand.
The motivation behind such a strong marketing campaign is obvious.
By grabbing public attention, Burberry is trying to strengthen the social presence of exporting TB printing and deepen public memory of brand new symbols.
In fact, the recent promotion of TB printing by Burberry can be regarded as the second round of intensive publicity since last year.
Last August, Burberry, the new CEO Marco Gobbetti and the new creative director Riccardo Tisci, suddenly announced the brand new logo and Thomas Burberry letter printing on its Instagram account, meaning that the Burberry with more than 160 years of history started to brand innovation.
After the release of the new brand image, some commentators believe that blackbody logo implies that the brand has the tendency to become brand oriented.
Facts have proved that the new Burberry is indeed inspired by the trend of brand operation.
Since the end of last year, Burberry has broken the traditional cycle of luxury goods, adopted the new "drop" mode of street brands, launched the new "B Series" on a monthly basis, and released the sale of social media accounts and application platforms by Instagram, WeChat, Line and Kakao.
In addition, Burberry seems to have been inspired by the marketing tools used by the trend brands to repeatedly apply simple symbols to get brain wash effect and began selling expensive T-shirts printed with Burberry words.
From the Off-White white zebra crossing to the red Box Logo of Supreme, the success of the fashion brand proves that the symbol value has replaced the traditional luxury brand's tradition and technology into a new luxury.
In addition to Burberry Logo, TB printing is undertaking more mission of shaping symbol value.
Before Riccardo Tisci released its first series, Burberry printed the full version of TB print in magazine advertisements.
Subsequently, the TB printing and graffiti wall of Beijing 798 excellence Art Center, the TB printing bear device in Shanghai too Pinghu Park, the TB printed taxi in London street, and the TB printing series installed in New York SAKS Fifth Avenue boutique, all of which show the determination of Burberry brand image innovation.
In addition to creating printing landscapes in major cities around the world, Burberry naturally did not relax print marketing on brand online.
Interestingly, Burberry also adopted the form of "printing hegemony screen" on line. It continuously concentrated TB printing, grabbing people's attention and making new symbols rooted in people's subconscious.
When people open the official Instagram account of Burberry, they will find that the layout is full of TB printing, which is exactly the same as offline strategy.
Riccardo Tisci is very clear that even though people mention Burberry, they will think of classical grid, but the latter has too many traditional images to satisfy the aspirations of young consumers. Burberry needs to create a brand new symbol.
If we simply sell brand Logo or have the suspicion of overflowing brand, then the TB printing extending from the brand historical archives can take into account the luxury brand tradition and youthful attitude, and achieve the balance of certain values.
In fact, Monogram printing has the special communication ability that ordinary printing does not possess.
Monogram originally refers to a pattern made by overlapping or combining two or more letters to form a symbol, usually the combination of the initials of the name, to form easily identifiable logo labels.
In today's luxury industry, Monogram refers specifically to the brand name printing patterns, such as Louis Vuitton's famous "old flower" pattern.
Because of their special arrangement, this kind of printing is different from traditional printing, from simple aesthetic meaning to symbolic meaning.
Unlike traditional printing with only graphic elements, Monogram printing has been given more layers of meaning because of the combination of letters and patterns.
Monogram printing single pattern and arrangement not only create strong visual impact, conform to the visual guided social media Instagram communication rules, it also meets the needs of young consumers in simplifying information in the flood of information, and is easier to be remembered by consumers.
Although the birth of Monogram is very long, the inherent logic of Monogram printing still works in the present era.
With the help of social media such as Instagram, Monogram printing has gained an unprecedented hotbed of viral pmission.
This makes the recent revival of this kind of printing virtually unsurprising.
The revival of the retro wind led to the prosperity of the medieval bag Market and made Monogram printing once again return to the consumer's perspective.
After the Gucci, luxury brands including Fendi, DIOR and so on also launched print products and scrambled to join the battle.
DIOR in 2018 autumn and winter, with Monogram printing, the classic saddle bag Saddle bag was launched by John Galliano in 1999. With the exposure of the matrix Street patten of the super flow network red and fashion bloggers, the classic bag with the DIOR old flower pattern is soon hard to find.
A fact that is often overlooked is that the widespread spread of Monogram printing is also closely related to the prevailing hip hop culture in the world.
Gucci after the early spring series in 2018, a bubble sleeve jacket was very similar to that of Dapper Dan, a hip-hop fashion designer who used to design a Louis Vuitton classic Monogram print for Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon.
After the incident, Gucci responded by calling it a tribute to Dapper Dan.
It also caused controversy about the "cultural appropriation" in the industry. Gucci and Dapper Dan finally solved the embarrassment by introducing a series of cooperation.
Gucci is popular with hip-hop culture. It can be traced back to 90s. It is a new Gucci suite created by fashion designer Dapper Dan.
Dapper Dan is considered to be the first designer to bring hip-hop into hip-hop culture.
In 90s of last century, the designer represented by him used luxury brand Monogram printing to re create, and satisfied the bottom culture's yearning for the luxury world. It was a creation based on bootleg.
The luxury brand Monogram printing is especially sought after by hip-hop culture, to a large extent, because of the logical symbolism of printing and the inherent claim of hip-hop culture.
A visible trend is that Bootleg culture is once again popular among young people nowadays, and is regarded as an expression of irony authority. Supreme's early theft of Louis Vuitton old flowers is for this purpose.
Interestingly, young people who are now following this culture are not always poor, but more attracted by rebellious attitudes.
Fendi, a traditional fur brand in Italy, uses the newly revived FF logo for "print marketing" to successfully turn young. This is also related to the popularity of brand printing in 1990s, which is greatly influenced by hip-hop culture.
Through Kim Kardashian and other social media celebrities' large area printing "brainwashing", Fendi has made classical printing more popular among young consumers.
The brand launched a series of FF capsules last year with Net-a-Porter, a well-known British electricity supplier, and hosted underground fashion music parties in London and Shanghai on the theme of #FFreloaded#.
It is noteworthy that in addition to the symbolic value, Monogram printing also has the ability to accelerate the conversion of symbolic value into commercial value.
Because Monogram printing is easy to recognize, it can easily be used as an identification tag to meet the social needs of consumers.
Once the Monogram printing with symbolic value can provide endorsement for the tastes and classes of consumers, printing can greatly stimulate conspicuous consumption and bring direct economic benefits to the brand.
Therefore, more and more luxury brands begin to increase Monogram printing products.
According to the authoritative trend forecast analysis platform WGSN report, the number of Monogram printing in 2019 early autumn fashion show increased by 36% compared with the same period last year.
However, in the practice of many brands, Burberry's "stamp marketing" is still in its own way in terms of methods and forms.
In the many scenes of "printing marketing", Burberry has promoted the status of Monogram printing and promoted it from the supporting role to the main body.
The image of the brand is not the Monogram printing carried by fashion products, but the Monogram printing itself. This is undoubtedly a breakthrough test for luxury marketing.
Burberry's "printing marketing" is also characterized by large scale rendering. It pfers Monogram printing from the relatively micro products to the social landscape, expands the scene of "print marketing", and extracts the brand from the more easily distracted online scenes, and enhances the exposure rate of the printing in the outdoor scenes that are not competitive with competition.
It not only emphasizes the relationship between Monogram printing and products, but also strengthens the relationship between Monogram printing and the overall brand image of Burberry.
Combined with the recent situation of Burberry, such a huge marketing behavior has become very urgent.
In recent months, the news that Burberry has closed four shops in Shanghai within a year has been widely circulated. It has become a dark cloud surrounding the British luxury brand. Many people are worried about the achievements made by Burberry over the past year.
The latest report shows that the original CEO Christopher Bailey's cost cutting plan is still in progress, and the brand will shut down 10% of its overseas stores this year.
As of the end of the first quarter of this year, Burberry has 431 sales outlets worldwide, a net decrease of 18 compared with the 2018 fiscal year.
Remove 4 stores that Burberry has quietly closed, and the brand now has 4 stores in Shanghai.
In early May, Burberry abandoned the plan to open a new factory in Liz.
The Shanghai flash shop opened in two new stores in Shanghai's IAPM shopping mall and the IFC shopping center of Shanghai state gold center. In addition to publicizing the Thomas Burberry Monogram printing series, there is actually a counterbalance to the negative public opinion about Shanghai closing four shops.
In fact, it is not only China, but also at the critical time node of the brand revival nowadays, Burberry urgently needs some positive public opinion all over the world.
After a year of rejuvenation efforts, Burberry's latest earnings report is still not optimistic.
In the 12 months ended March 30, 2019, Burberry sales almost no growth, recorded 2 billion 720 million pounds, excluding the wholesale cosmetics business after sales increased 2%, operating profit increased 7% to 437 million pounds, after tax profit increased 15% to 339 million pounds.
Investors are still puzzled by the combination of Riccardo Tisci and Marco Gobbetti that can lead Burberry to the first gradient of luxury goods.
Earlier analysts believe that the Buberry's sluggish performance may mean that the new team led by Marco Gobbetti and Riccardo Tisci does not have enough strength to let more consumers buy branded products.
At the end of last year, ten of the top European luxury and apparel companies released by Bloomberg, Burberry ranked the lowest among analysts.
At the same time, the outflow of some unfavorable news also makes the brand uncertain.
Some analysts believe that the latest Thomas Burberry Monogram printing department's environmental protection material is a response to last year's social criticism caused by burning unsalable products.
According to the times of Britain, Burberry burned a product worth 28 million 60 thousand pounds (about 247 million yuan).
In the past two years, the cost of Burberry waste has increased by 50%. In the past five years, the total value of over 90 million pounds has been destroyed, so as to ensure that goods do not flow into the black market or the counterfeiters.
To this end, Burberry is accelerating its pace to rebuild its brand image of social responsibility.
According to the latest report of Ellen MacArthur foundation, Burberry will cancel unnecessary plastic packaging or use recyclable degradable plastics before 2025.
Earlier, Burberry also announced that it would no longer use animal fur and would gradually eliminate existing fur products. The brand will also launch its racks recycling scheme by the end of this year.
Whether harvested monthly, the new series B Series, Burberry and Vivienne Westwood's joint series, or Riccardo Tisci's two season fashion series, all seem to have some "insufficient firepower", which failed to bring the brand performance to the overall boost and help Burberry achieve a complete turn.
GlobalData analyst Chloe Collins concluded that Marco Gobbetti and Ricardo Tisci are undoubtedly experienced veterans in luxury goods, but facing Burberry's outdated luxury brand is still under pressure, and the brand may need to be more bold in its reform.
In this case, TB printing has taken on more strategic missions. It must win the battle and burn the enthusiasm of consumers.
In fact, this is also becoming a new consensus in the marketing of luxury brands, that is, insufficient marketing input or insufficient publicity can not achieve better communication effect.
In the age of information overload, people realized that only a large scale and high input brainwashing marketing aimed at a product or a concept can work.
In the past, many people thought that luxury brands should not be overexposed, but now the luxury industry has undergone drastic changes.
LVMH chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault said the luxury industry should not despise marketing, and if it does not do marketing, it will not be able to base itself on the luxury market.
The total expenditure spent on marketing in CHANEL last year for marketing promotion, fashion shows and hosting events amounted to US $1 billion 460 million, with an annual growth rate of 15%.
DIOR saddle bag is a rare successful marketing case recently.
On the eve of the sale of saddle bags, DIOR launched a lot of advertising on the global market Instagram.
In addition to general advertising, DIOR also invited more than 20 fashion bloggers to implant on the day of the July 19th saddle bag sale, which instantly stimulated the exposure scale effect of saddle bags.
At the moment, the stronger the capital strength is, the more money the brand will invest in marketing. The greater the investment, the greater the business return. This will also lead to the polarization of the performance of the luxury goods industry.
Burberry seems to be aware of the fact that the second round of "stamp marketing" has been launched by concentrated firepower.
In fighting for attention and traffic, Burberry has no room for hesitation.
However, it must be emphasized that "stamp marketing" can only be a means of communication. Ultimately, a brand must pform its attention resources to products and turn them into sales performance.
The establishment of deep ties with consumers, rejection of superficial and highly homogeneous design and the provision of truly high-quality products are still the core of brand development.
It is interesting to note that the evening of the Burberry flash shop coincides with its important competitor, Italy luxury brand Prada, holding the 2020 spring and summer menswear show in Shanghai.
As the first men's show in spring and summer outside Milan, Prada attached great importance to this.
A week ago, the brand has been warming up for the big show by announcing the new advertising campaign of Cai Xukun, the spokesman for the men's wear.
Like Burberry, Prada has launched a large number of outdoor advertisements for the 2019 autumn winter men's wear series.
If Burberry uses the printing effect as a visual selling point, Prada hopes to attract attention through the idol culture.
In addition, Prada also launched a large number of advertising campaigns for Shanghai big show in social media such as Sina micro-blog and WeChat, and then announced its presence in Jingdong platform the next day.
Behind the frequent movements is the pformation of Prada thinking.
As consumers gradually differentiate into two extremes of luxury goods and popular fashion brands, the dominant position in the middle - end market is no longer.
In the face of increasingly fierce market competition, Prada has unloaded its previous restraint and turned to the battle of extravagant brand marketing.
At this point, Prada and Burberry are in the same position, and the two are almost aware of the new trend of industry marketing at the same time.
Even in the same city and the same regional market, the struggle for public attention has been undercurrent.
So for the global business of luxury goods, Burberry will soon face a tough battle.
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