Dior&Nbsp; The Twelve Most Beautiful Dresses.
F/W 1997Dior Couture Royal Princess
In Bagatelle rose garden, Varvatos John Varvatos Galliano moves an antique bed onto the stage, tall with tall hair, or interwoven with beads and jewelry, and Galliano claims that it is inspired by the Royal Princess of Edward era.
The whole series of Mousika came from all kinds of artistic allusions and foreign cultures, from the Austria symbolist painter Gustav Klimt to France's post impressionist painter Henri de Toulouse- Maison de la VANILLE La Maison Maison, the "black and white" Satin dresses, the surface of the black gauze long dress is covered with precise geometric cutting beads, the puff sleeve shoulder padded bra and the Lace Satin wrapped satin dress with lace, and thousands of nail bead sequins combined into peacock shaped tattoos, which fit on the model body; the silver collar extends on the neck of the model, and the silk skirt embroiders with the embroidery of the froth like totem, when the world travels to Morocco, North Africa.
The outline is the focal point of Galliano's outstanding cutting. The innovation of Galliano focuses on geometric vision: sharp triangular shoulder profile, improved filling of the clothes, and grafting of kimono sleeves, and advanced customization gradually moves towards the subversive road.
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F/W 1998Dior Couture colony
When France won the championship in the sixteenth World Cup, France showed an unprecedented friendship. The fashion houses were jubilant. The joy of Dior had some hysterical emotions.
The whole series was named "when Pocahontas met queen Elisabeth I", the colonial aristocratic fashion was strongly exaggerated, and the models performed their respective duties and became inexperienced Musketeers, graceful Princess Renaissance Princess, or Henry's eighth era's violent cross dressing.
The costumes are filled with a luxurious and extravagant temperament. The totem prints of the Wa people in Indiana are the elements that permeate all the time. They not only appear in the lining of chiffon skirts, but also are printed on leather, cutting fringes and different sizes of extra large coats.
There is no doubt that the performance of the whole show to Indian's culture and art is amazing. It is just too complicated and inspired by some overexertion, eager for quick success and instant benefit. At the same time, the colony means bloody and killing, and the scene of singing and dancing is also criticized by some public opinion. However, as for clothing itself, Dior's advanced customization has become a wonderful work in that fashion circle.
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S/S 2000Dior Couture in ragged clothes
Advanced customization symbolizes honor and luxury, but how to maintain its pride in the way of a tramp as Mousika's clothes? John Galliano holds high the banner of decadence, claiming that he is very inspired by the vagabond everywhere on the Senna River during his daily morning run, so he uses the "tattered" subversive proposition to define advanced customization, which makes Paris, who has always encouraged adventures, be a bit cold headed.
Clothing looks extremely fake, loose and fat trousers are no proportion, large area tear, wear, cobweb, cigarette butt holes and other details of the simulation is very vivid, mini size tableware and empty bottles hanging dangling on the body, but the material is still the top, "stains" is actually a trim lamb, leather mosaic brocade and high precision lace embroidery to form a ragged shirt mess effect, seemingly casual in the chiffon waistband outside the use of crocodile skin material.
In this series, Galliano tries to look back on his past, blending elements that are unrelated to sex, romance, and provocation, which are very similar to his early works.
This is probably the reason why Bernard Arnault hired Galliano: breaking the tradition, creating subversion, and not going mad.
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F/W 2000Dior Couture masochism
With the surge of heavy tidal breathing and whipping sound, John Galliano takes Mousika Sigmund Freud, a Austria psychoanalyst, as an attempt to explore sexual fantasies at all levels of human beings, such as animal crafty, education, incest, fetish and so on. The boldness of the theme has shocked the fashion world again.
Proof that fashion is an art, is there any evidence that is forbidden to be used? If British rock dare to publicize the dark side of sexual fantasy, why can't advanced customization be made? This very provocative show is a good example.
"I try to create the expression of fetishism in dress psychology." Galliano images Freud, leather, binding, military affairs, utensils, uniform temptation and other elements of love to make clothes have an indescribable fatal attraction. The metaphor of human beings and animals is pformed into a gorilla mask with model concealed faces. Playwright Oscar Wilde is enamored of green carnations, and Galliano recreates this feeling with a satin swallow tailed coat.
Despite the fact that the overall practicality has yet to be improved, some of the dresses have been quite effective. Galliano wrote a new footnote for the skeet evening dress in the Catholic family of Freudian theory.
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F/W 2002Dior Couture Vanity Fair
When rumors of "advanced customization are dead" began to flow around Paris, John Galliano suspended the pace of rendering folk customs, trying to evoke memories of the golden age of Hollywood.
Pencil skirts, box coats, advertising posters, girls' dresses, towering feather feathers.
This is the fashion of Hollywood in the eyes of Galliano, including those made of titanium made of titanium and maternity clothes, which reflects the trend of the Hollywood women competing for pregnancy. The most exciting moment is the simulation of the The S color Eve color n Year Itch in the runway, which recreates the classic picture of the Marilyn Monroe pressed skirt.
The reality is undoubtedly the biggest breakthrough in the whole series. "We have completed the overall deconstruction of Dior. Now is the time for a new round of reorganization, and then the way is different.
Advanced customization can be very heavy, but this season I want the splash effect of the spray, which is light air texture. "
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S/S 2003John Galliano Bollywood
When the blue faced model with a large gold foil headwear stepped on the T platform with a 15 centimeter thick sole, the audience began to figure out what medicine was being sold in the John Galliano gourd.
Bollywood is the most inspiring inspiration in India. Mousika's folk costume, gorgeous make-up and jewelry, and the models of the finale are unanimous in the size of the amazing costumes, spreading the colored loose powder used to celebrate the traditional festivals in India. When the model is spinning rapidly, the front row guests are being baptized by the dust. Instead of being angry, Mousika is completely infected by this joyous atmosphere.
On the deeper level of Mousika, Galliano attributed it to Leigh Bowery, which was inspired by the London performing artist who was active in the 80s. Theatre and club culture continued to emerge in his works for a period of time.
At that time, John Galliano enjoyed the T time very much. Just like he taught everyone to enjoy the color in this series, the fashion that can be worn out of the street is only a showroom. The fashion editor and the buyer can see them in "Resee". T is the place to practice their dreams. In his own words, it is called "Joie de Vivre".
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S/S 2003Dior Couture Forbidden City
After a three week tour of China and Japan, John Galliano has offered a magnificent series comparable to the epic.
The bold and bright colors and prints from the Chinese red and dragon robes are bold and bright, from China, geisha facial makeup, kimono tailoring, ninja hat and Bushido weapon are from Japan.
No one recreate the culture as he wantonly. The huge size of clothing is the first time in the history of human T.
Galliano defines this dramatic tension with "rough romance". As for its relevance to the Forbidden City / Japan, Galliano has not given a clear explanation.
Perhaps the flag clothing and kimono are all loosely tailored. Perhaps in the eyes of Westerners, the mysterious Asian culture can only reveal its complicated story clues with the sense of existence.
This is Asia, but not Asia as we know it.
But the charm of the Western combination is here. The sleeves are improved and kimono sewn with fishtail Chiffon plucks. The brocade cotton padded jacket will cut off the plucked Chiffon apron. When the Shaolin Temple monks on the T stage play their fist, the models still behave like no one else. The collision between the two cultures promotes the fashion show to the height of behavior art.
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S/S 2004Dior Couture Dynasty
Just like Goldbach's conjecture of "1+2", the simplest thing is the most difficult to control, and fashion design is also the case.
Ancient Egypt was a source of inspiration for the season, using fashion language to tell a task that seemed impossible for a long history of 4000 years, and John Galliano dared to face the challenge.
His cleverness lies in the detail, from the point to the face.
Take the opening form as an example, the model is dressed in a dazzling gold foil dress, and the cuffs are blooming like two giant flowers. The costumes keep the sense of existence and conform to the "narrow, tight and thin" keeping pace with the times.
The whole series is quite sophisticated in terms of material application. The natural materials such as gold foil, silver foil, lapis lazuli, coral peg and so on make the clothes have a strong sense of historical gravity. Besides restoring the original image of Sphinx Sphinx and Cleopatra Cleopatra, the ancient Egyptian religion and culture, such as cliff paintings, mummies and animal plants worship, have also been fully demonstrated.
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F/W 2005Dior Couture salute
Fashion never lacks imagination.
In order to commemorate the birth of Christian Dior 100th anniversary, John Galliano led advanced customization to fairy tale dreams: a little boy dressed in navy uniform and dressed in
Pigeon grey dress
The elegant woman has entered the audience's eyes. The former symbolizes Mr. Dior himself, while the latter represents his mother.
This season, Galliano revisited the fashion house archives and took a nostalgic route to pay tribute to history.
The whole series is divided into nine parts, each part has its own distinct theme: "New Look" highlights the lightness of dress and the intense and intense Peru folk color; "Hollywood" emphasizes the totem floral embroidery on the tapered Tulle; "Degas Dancers" redefines ballet; the colorful dance skirt extends the charm of South American customs; "Masked Ball" stresses the echo of the beginning and the end, and the surrealistic modeling of knights, Queens, angels and so on brings fashion back to the scenes of ghosts and fairy tales.
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S/S 2007Dior Couture Origami
Similar to the East theme, four years later, John Galliano can still make infinite surprises.
Unlike the 2003 spring and summer, which focuses on volume rendering and striking visual acidities, this season emphasizes pure and deep femininity, which is in line with the classical impressions of Mr. Dior.
The sad keynote of the opera Madame Butterfly is throughout the show. The hat of Stephen Jones covers the traditional Japanese images of all levels, from pine, bamboo, cherry blossoms to lanterns, folding fans and chopsticks. Each image corresponds to different forms of dress. Whether it is improvement or clothing or the improvement of the dress details, the origami art is displayed on the fabric, and the solid and rigid geometric modeling simulates the blooming flowers and the birds with wings.
There is no doubt that this is the most beautiful season of Galliano in the history of Dior. No matter it is the intensity of inspiration or the degree of technological refinement, every detail is a chasm that future generations cannot overcome.
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F/W 2006Dior Couture war and peace
No matter whether there is any connection between Joan of arc, post punk band Siouxsie Sioux, Renaissance painter Botticelli and French actress Arletty in 40s, the inspiration of John Galliano is Mousika's huge lineup that season, but the theme is war, and can also be interpreted as "love and peace" from the positive side.
Taking off the surrealistic armor headwear, the Cleopatra Cleopatra type Bead Tassel, and the Elsa Schiaparelli style animal decorative hat, the costumes themselves are weakening their theatrical development in a more realistic direction.
Punk series is a new attempt of Galliano for advanced customization. The box shaped overcoat is made of various materials such as fur, feathers, feathers and so on. It is made of metal textured pleated skirt and united with black elastic panty hose. Its high practicality and naked Street sense are not the usual elements of Dior advanced customization.
At the time of coming into 10th anniversary, Galliano's retrospective action has already appeared. It is not a repetition of archives or past works, but a collection of fragments from past inspiration, so that it can be magnified, combat attributes, historical dust and grandiose art.
These are not new things for Galliano, but after he reveals innocence, he can continue to retain his illusions, but it is a valuable thing.
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S/S 2008Dior Couture symbolism
In the first ten years,
John Galliano
The dramatic tension of fashion has been brought into full play. After ten years, he should be pragmatic.
Dior
Advanced customization is understood and accepted by more people.
The last season's extravagant celebrations were particularly successful. The whole series was won by color and embroidery. The former focused on the bold and bold characteristics. The bright colors of lime green, lemon yellow, peacock blue and berry red were very confusing. The latter was inspired by Mousika, a Austria symbolist painter Gustav. Galliano restored the peacock feathers, gold and silver chaff, and natural animal texture in her paintings. The extraordinary geometric patterns of creativity reflected on the hard fabrics such as Duke satin and so on. The visual impact of the Klimt has not weakened, but the carrier has been widely distributed.
Now no matter where the allusion comes from, Galliano's appeal to the classic image is more real than ever. After Valentino officially retire, Dior has enough ability to take her symbolic and honorable mantle.
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