Fashion Rules Of China'S Clothing Industry Detonate Industrial "War"
The real war started.
What is the core weapon of this war?
"On the eve of the new year's holiday, the company is still operating as usual." Said Miss Song of Dongguan wilderness company.
However, when she returned from business, she found that the company was empty.
In January 2, 2012, the company holding the Guangdong brand "stranger" broke down.
For Miss Song, working here has always been her pride. Now that the company has gone bankrupt, she has to find a job again.
This seems to be a footnote for industrial development in 2011. Over the past year, news of "Dongguan's current collapse" and "closure of Wenzhou enterprises" have been reported.
"Last year, the cost of raw materials and labor increased, leading to an increase of about 30% of business expenditure, which is too much pressure on enterprises." Li Shengzhi, executive director of Guangzhou's company, talked about the collapse.
However, banks' tightening of money has brought fatal consequences to the development of garment enterprises. Influence " Some scholars say.
Obviously, for many enterprises, the sudden tightening of bank loans has become the last straw to overtake many enterprises.
Indeed, in the past year, many enterprises have come to the crossroads of development.
"At stake," said Zhou Dewen, President of the Wenzhou Association of small and medium enterprises, "2011 is the most difficult year since the financial crisis."
In fact, as early as last October's China clothing convention, Chen Dapeng, executive vice president of the China clothing association, asserted that in 2011, it might be more difficult than the financial crisis in 2008.
This is mainly reflected in small and medium-sized export enterprises.
"Europe and the United States economic uncertainties, leading to the European and American region clothing The slowdown in demand growth is also the main reason for the slowdown in China's clothing exports. Xia Lingmin, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation, said.
Under the pressure of China's cost, many orders have begun to shift.
"We are being affected by the rapid rise in wages in China's manufacturing sector." "In the next five years, China's capacity will be reduced to 40-50%, and the new orders will be transferred to countries such as India, Vietnam and Philippines," said COACH CEO Lew Frankfort, chairman of the US brand.
The transfer of international brand orders has accelerated the breadth and speed of China's market development.
Even those luxury brands are breaking through the layout of China's first and second tier cities, striding into the three tier cities, and the Chinese market has become their racecourse.
For example, LV has opened 27 stores in 22 cities in China, including two or three cities in Changsha, Xiamen, Wuxi and Wenzhou.
"After the luxury brand attracts popularity, many start to go down." Chen Hongbing, a luxury consultant, said that they were not satisfied with the high-end market, and they began to be popular with new luxury, snatching the high-end market and extending the new market.
For example, designers such as Chanel and other luxury brands were invited by H&M to design for H&M. These products were robbed when they got on the shelves.
H&M stores even used police to maintain order, becoming a landscape of the city.
"We can't squeeze in the high-end clothing market." Chinese fir Chief executive Zheng Yonggang said, "but the sales volume in the middle market is the biggest. We must occupy the market."
In fact, the international mid-range brands also have a comprehensive layout in China as early as possible.
For example, Zara, a fashion brand from Spain, has opened up a store since its opening in Nanjing West Road and Huaihai Road in 2006, and its appearance is constantly appearing in large and medium-sized cities in China. Up to now, there are nearly 80.
In fact, with the cooperation between Chinese garment enterprises and foreign brands in the fields of design, production and marketing, thousands of international garment brands have entered the Chinese market in the form of territorial production.
And Nike started the development of China's three or even four line cities.
In February 22, 2011, Nike's largest logistics center was put into use in the Asia Pacific region of Taicang, Jiangsu.
According to the introduction, the logistics center has an area of 200 thousand square meters, which is responsible for logistics operations in China including clothing, footwear and so on.
Analysts believe that this is Nike for the layout of China's 234 tier cities to make preparations.
The market structure began to be broken.
As we all know, the early entry of Nike has always had an absolute advantage in the first tier cities, while domestic brands regard the two or three tier cities as their home.
But at the moment, Nike is firmly in the first tier cities to enter the two or three line or even four line cities, which will undoubtedly bring great challenges to Chinese brands.
More importantly, Nike has gradually introduced cheaper products. They gradually abandoned the high-end image when they first entered China and began to take the civilian line to compete in the middle end market.
The enemy approached the walls.
Chinese clothing brands have to fight with international brands.
"Foreign brands have a great impact on us, plus domestic consumers. brand Understanding is yet to mature. They always believe that foreign brands are more fashionable than domestic brands. Wu Bangdong, President of Chuang Ji, said that the development of Chinese brands is under great pressure.
It is true that many Chinese brands have to rely on "foreign identity" to improve themselves.
In this pattern, "the birds are like a sandwich in the middle, under which there are thousands of soldiers in the country. There is a high ranking cloud in the world. They live in the attack." Wu Zhize, chairman of the wedding bird, said so.
However, if the middle end market is lost, the problem of Chinese clothing brands will become bigger. Zheng Yonggang said.
The real war started.
What is the core weapon of this war?
We can start from the international background of industrial development.
In 1930s, the world garment industry took the first round of migration, and the United States, Italy and other countries formed a new world fashion center.
In 1960s, garment manufacturing industry began to transfer to new Asian industrial countries and regions, such as Japan, Korea, Hongkong, China and Taiwan.
The third round of migration began in 1980s, and gradually moved to mainland China, India, Pakistan and Southeast Asia.
But in this transfer, the fashion oligarchs transferred the lowest value part to the less developed countries and held the high value-added links in their own hands.
In the process, Chinese clothing has formed a complete industrial chain system and processing system, and has begun to shift from labor cost advantages to functional advantages, efficiency advantages and cost performance advantages.
"Fundamentally," made in China "becomes" China created, "said Du Yuzhou, President of the China clothing association. This is a roadmap for China to move from low end to high end.
The question is, can China form its own fashion rules? What is China's fashion rule?
This needs to start with the market.
One of the fashion rules in China's apparel industry: market planning
How to define Chinese fashion consumers is not so simple.
2008 of the global financial crisis, all brands can be spared.
From the US subprime crisis in October 2007 to the collapse of Lehman brothers in October 2008, LV's share price dropped from 89 euros to 45 euros.
However, Hermes is against the trend. It rose from 60 euros in late January 2007 to 118.8 euros in October 1st.
In fact, on the eve of the storm, Arnott, President of LV, once said that although LV grew by more than ten percent in the world, the growth of emerging markets and the US market increased sharply. This shows that the focus of LV has been placed on the US and emerging markets, not on the negative growth in the European market.
Almost at the same time, Thomas, President of Hermes, has indicated that although Hermes has doubled its performance in Asia every year, they still focus on France.
Thus, Hermes didn't pursue the speed of expansion and kept the tradition. market To keep it away from a bubble and risk.
This is a commitment, but also a manifestation of brand values.
Two of fashion rules in China's apparel industry: technological support
The era of scientific and technological productivity is coming.
On the eve of the fashion release season, Chanel will go to a village not far from Paris, and find an old lady to help her make the advanced ribbon.
This tradition began decades ago, and after cocoa Chanel saw her craft, she was appointed to make the ribbon. The old lady first disassembled the fabric sent from Chanel, then extracted the longitude and latitude line, then reassembled it, and then made the unique ribbon with her own invented wood loom.
In fact, the old lady had never seen Chanel's clothing style, and her designers did not know how to make ribbons, but these craftsmen constituted the cornerstone of Chanel and constituted the cornerstone of French luxury industry.
Of course, the luxury industry in France also pays special attention to the selection of materials.
For example, hermes bags must be made from the same animal and must not be flawed. It's not easy to hide calf skin. But Hermes has never lowered the standard of keeping a guest. As a result, an Hermes Birkin bag will have to wait in line for several years.
This is the spiritual value of French luxury brands.
In China, the power of technology is also witnessing history.
Three of fashion rules of Chinese clothing industry: designing magic power
The essence of fashion is subversion.
"What we need to do is to surprise consumers." Mao Jihong, an exception, said.
In fact, the exception was released in Paris fashion week and was called art by the international fashion industry.
Indeed, the essence of fashion is subversion.
For example, Paul Polret, the world famous designer, designed the loose fitting trousers for women, which completely ended the history that women could not wear trousers.
Another example is that Chanel's small black dress is undoubtedly more tasteful, and her style of neutral dress has become popular with her.
The history of fashion design is a history of creation. For many Chinese brands, there is a lack of Chanel's "little black dress", even if it is not the masterpiece of the era of clothing change, it should also have its own standard.
Of course, this requires style first.
Four of fashion rules in China's clothing industry: Marketing detonation force
Fashion is a factory that makes desires.
"It's entirely up to the tide, not to catch up with the trend." Hush's head said.
In fact, Hush Puppies had been obscurity and even thought about stopping producing casual shoes that became famous overnight.
But a miracle happened.
Several young people in East Village and SOHO District in Manhattan began to wear hush shoes. The young man had a good communication, and their friends were also affected, and they put on Hush Puppies.
So, there has been a store in Manhattan. People rushed there and sold out.
Later on, many of the design fashion shows used hush shoes.
Immediately after that, sales of hush shoes grew year by year and became a favorite brand of the world's consumers.
The other brand, walking in the clouds, is not as lucky as Hush Puppies, and can not find a correspondent or contact person at once to help him spread and make it popular.
So they tried to relay themselves. Transformation To achieve the purpose of popularity.
Thus, they designed avant-garde advertisements.
Five of fashion rules of Chinese clothing industry: commercial attraction
Shops are the faces of brands.
In fact, the exception set up a buyer department since its initial stage.
Buyers directly face franchisees and terminal stores, and are responsible for the operation of all departments. Buyers have the right to decide how many quantities they produce, and to advise on clothing styles.
Actually, participating in the design and grasping the popularity is an important part of the buyer.
For example, ZARA, hundreds of buyers go to fashion shows or shopping malls, collect new popular elements carefully, then discuss and share with the design department. After the new design is carried out by the design department, the purchase and production are arranged.
Here, the buyer should take the main information supply of product development, and also independently develop the product style. Designers should design and modify the information provided by buyers to carry out product development.
Finally, at the terminal, the buyers patrol the store with a hand-held PDA. When a store was found to be in short supply, they used PDA to make up the order to headquarters.
Six of fashion rules in China's apparel industry: talent cohesion
The important thing is how to train people.
However, for the talents, those are international brands, and sometimes they also make people feel ashamed.
In September 2011, 5 Shenzhen GUCCI flagship stores left their employees and sent an open letter to Gucci's top management of Gucci employees who resigned on the Internet.
The letter said that the water should be applied to the higher authorities, and the toilet should also be licensed. After every night after work, they still have to stay overtime to count the goods until two or three in the morning. If there is something stolen in the store, all employees need to be compensated jointly.
In order to hire the manager, the fast retailing company provided a salary standard of up to 5400-6000 yuan.
However, when interviewed, they were told that "the premise is to meet the requirements of the company, otherwise the money will be deducted." Many applicants said, "although you work 8 hours a day, you have to come in one or two hours ahead of time and work overtime."
In fact, most of the reserve cadres they recruited in 2010 have already left.
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