China's Clothing Design Group Growth Designer Brand Attention

In the course of learning and communication, China's clothing (000902) design group is growing and showing more confidence. The national day of 2006 must be the most important day in Xie Feng's life. His Jifen brand, the first clothing brand from China, successfully landed in Paris fashion week and became the opening show of fashion week. After the meeting, Grumbach, President of the French High Fashion Association, told the media in various countries: "the appearance of Xie Feng in the official schedule of Paris fashion week in France is the same as that of American designers landing in Paris fashion week in 1973." Jiang Hengjie, executive vice president of the China clothing association, said, "this is the beginning of China's fashion designers going to the world." From scratch, from copy to innovation, from home to the world, Chinese clothing design has made rapid progress in 30 years. In the early days of China's reform and opening up, designers were called technicians, and there was no change in clothing design, let alone brand and designer brand. "As long as you sew three pockets on your clothes, this format can sell quickly." Guo Pei was very impressed by that time. The break of the situation began with Mr. Pierre Cardin's arrival in 1979. In this year, Pierre Cardin held a costume show at the Beijing National Cultural Palace. Those tall women with shrug skirts and relaxed looks formed a strong contrast to the Chinese spectators wearing blue gray uniforms and breathtaking and breathtaking. The city of Beijing caused great sensation at the time of the Beijing. The people who saw the performance at that time were just insiders, who felt the difference between the international and the domestic, but the closed thought was mostly reserved. The concept of Chinese fashion design seems to have not yet appeared. But by the middle of 80s, there was still no special designer's department in Chinese textile Education, but some prospective students began to design explorations by relying on savvy and novelty. Zhang Zhaoda, the representative figure, started designing advanced garments for the American OLEGCASSINI brand in 1985. His design talent was immediately recognized by the international market and became the first Chinese fashion designer to break into the fashion industry in Europe and America. It is also during this year that with the development of opening up, the international designers of the Chinese market did not abandon the Chinese market. In 1985, international fashion designers Iv San Roland, Pierre Cardin and Koshino Junko came to Beijing for fashion exhibitions and exhibitions, giving the Chinese a lively fashion lesson. The brilliant display of three masters has shocked Chinese clothing enterprises and designers, and has also expanded their artistic horizons. However, at that time, designers, even the clothing enterprises that simply made their products, had not yet taken a firm step. The famous clothing brands abroad had entered the Chinese market one after another, leaving unprepared clothing companies and designers at a loss. However, some people who have good education and self-cultivation first started the journey of designer in real sense, though at that time, they still belonged to learning stage. In fact, three years later, in 1988, Xie Feng, with the dream of a brand, left Zhejiang Institute of Silk and Textiles, where he studied and worked for nearly ten years, and came to "Japan culture and Clothing Institute" to learn costume design. After that, Xie Feng got a job offer from Nicole company in Japan and was recommended to work in a studio in Paris Kenzo. These experiences let Xie Feng precipitate himself in the intersection of eastern and Western Aesthetics and in the identity of mixed culture. China began to design, and a number of future domestic designers began to learn and accumulate. However, until 1993, there was still no real fashion designer in China. "Fashion designer" is only a noun, and there is no clear professional connotation. In fact, until the mid 90s, the idea of dressing according to the occasion had not been established in the consciousness of Chinese consumers before the market was in short supply. The development of clothing industry mainly depends on the expansion of consumption base and processing scale, and enterprises are represented by speed competition centered on "processing". The processing trade in the international market and the single product operation in the domestic market mainly depend on the style of "incoming samples" and "export to domestic sales". At that time, the design still did not become the industry particularly valued, many enterprises still did not raise the design to a strategic height. Most of the designers at this time appeared in the image of an artist. Influenced by the international trend of thought, Chinese fashion designers gradually developed, but at the beginning they took a detour. They showed misunderstandings of sex, too much pursuit of exposure and transparency. Zhang Zhaoda had a very painful failure in this period. In 1994, he began to want to manipulate his brand, and worked with others to invest 20 million yuan, but he ended up losing everything. Finally, he realized that the brand must first satisfy the consumers who you are positioning and satisfy their consumption habits instead of trying to change their consumption habits. During this period, many designers tend to be too particular about personality, lose consumers, or too much to yield to the market and lose their design completely, no matter which extremes are deviated from success. During the period of designers' wandering, the development of the garment industry has not been affected. The clothing enterprises have been developing rapidly, and nearly 6 enterprises have been affected by the demand of the market. But soon, consumers find that the clothing of the market can hardly be chosen from their fabrics or patterns and styles. At this time, consumers increasingly rich in material have begun to have the right to choose - the demand for fashion is getting bigger and bigger. At this time, although the down jacket has just appeared, there are more than 4000 down garment manufacturers nationwide. Among them, there are duck ducks in the South and iriran in the north. They occupy the vast majority of the market share, but the domestic down jacket is almost a bloated "bread garment". After a market failure, Bosideng affirms that design innovation is the key to build Bosideng's core competitiveness. Bosideng, after extensive research, has been keen to catch people's demand for the novelty and beauty of down garments, and resolutely put the fashion style of simplicity, fashion and line into down garments, and has introduced light, thin and beautiful fashion down eiderwear, especially in China. The dress style down jacket, changing the history of the down jacket only in winter, has triggered a revolution in China's down garment industry. Since 1996, Bosideng has introduced a series of production equipment. The cost of R & D and design each year has accounted for 3%-7% of the sales volume, which laid a solid foundation for its later becoming a leading enterprise in China's down garment industry. The innovation of design brought Bosideng a great market benefit and a great market effect. It awakened a batch of garment enterprises in China, and raised the design to a new level. The first time the Chinese designers had the organic cooperation with the enterprises, though at that time, the designers were mostly employees of the enterprises, not now they could set up their own workshops. However, the clothing and fashion of clothing consumption promotes the brand management of garment enterprises, and provides a broad industrial stage and market space for fashion designers. Xie Feng, who originally made designs abroad, returned to China in 1998 with the support of a textile company in Italy, and founded the brand of Jifen. Is the era of Chinese costume design coming? In the middle and late 90s, the domestic market showed the surplus of oversupply, and the transformation of market position between supply and demand. To promote the rational adjustment of clothing consumption and enterprise management, the intensification of competition and the shrinking of processing profits force enterprises to turn to "brand management". On many occasions, Zheng Yonggang, chairman of Shanshan Group, also said, "the development of China's clothing industry has reached the stage of fashion and personalization". With the help of external processing, coastal enterprises have begun to understand the dynamics of international clothing styles, colors and fabrics. After primitive accumulation, a large number of Chinese brand clothes began to be born. Shanshan, YOUNGOR (600177, stock bar), Luo Meng and other enterprises began to brand design, giving the brand meaning and connotation. In 1997, Shanshan company introduced the brand of the best ready-made clothing brand "FLRS". To this end, in the second half of 1996, we successfully recruited Zhang Zhaoqing and Wang Xinyuan, the highest level designers in China, and established Beijing Shanshan FLRS Fashion Co., Ltd. The design funds for the two designers were 4 million yuan / person / year. Zheng Yonggang believes that the product economic model of the Chinese clothing industry was outdated at that time, showing that the growth trend of the company's Western clothing sales slowed down and the market share declined. The further development of Chinese fir needs transformation mode, that is, clothing is developing towards fashion and diversification, and industry is developing towards high technology. At the beginning of its establishment, both China's clothing industry, the design sector, and the Shanshan company itself placed high hopes on her, and regarded it as a symbol of the development of China's garment industry to the international garment industry. According to the efforts of Shanshan company to conceive and invite famous designers of FLRS brand, FLRS has caused a great sensation in the industry. However, after the initial success of FLRS and the initial success, the disharmony between the designer and the leadership of the company appeared. Finally, in November 2003, the board of directors of Shanshan stock (600884, stock bar) company made a decision on "FLRS": it was transferred to Chen Xingguo, a natural person, at a price of 12 million yuan. Mr. Zheng Yonggang, an entrepreneur with good sense of advance and strong fashion desire, has many contacts with top designers in China. However, the contradiction between the operators and designers in FLRS's efforts to promote FLRS is a fundamental factor that affects the ideal performance of FLRS. When the company had to change the designer, the connotation of FLRS brand became blurred. At that time, there was another problem between Chinese fashion designers and garment enterprises executives: whether the designer was mainly based on performance, or to meet the needs of business operation. Of course, operators are concerned about profits. The clothing design of enterprises is not about making art, but in making artistic products. What they need is popular art, not elegant and self indulged art. Another contradiction between the two is that a company's hard - working outstanding designer, when he has no name, wants him to be famous - this is a fashion brand. But they are famous for their big shelves, high prices and the possibility of leaving at any time. In fact, under such a background in China, it is impossible to succeed in developing fashionable and high design brands in garment enterprises which are processed by brands. Although this cooperation has not been continued, it has opened the era of "master + big business" cooperation. After the baptism of this market, a large number of designers and enterprises have gone to the market and even abandoned many false names. This is a change of designer team in the new market environment. Before, almost all designers believed that their greatest accomplishment was to enjoy the flowers and applause on T. Gradually, such statements are becoming less and less, or even disappear. Whether true or false, in the designer's lips, the success of the brand, the recognition of the market and the creation of value become the mainstream vocabulary. The clothing and fashion of clothing consumption promotes the brand management of garment enterprises, and provides a broad industrial stage and market space for fashion designers. In the process of "design and industry integration", the professional connotation of fashion designers' basic knowledge, professional skills and moral standards are tested and substantiated. Chinese designers have come to a new level. Mature in international market exploration, but in the long period of cooperation between designers and enterprises, the survival environment of domestic designers is not optimistic. The pursuit of products has become a landscape of the clothing companies at that time. Big domestic companies are pursuing big international brands. The mid-range companies are chasing big domestic brands. Small companies are chasing secondary companies, and small companies chase companies that sell better. The designer's job is to buy products that sell well in the market, when samples, copy and production are put into the market, and domestic designers are inexplicably pushed into a dilemma. As a result, many talented designers create their own brands or start design studios and do not want to play their talents in enterprises. But designers do everything.