Bao Mingxin: Dress With A Wise Accent.
< p > Bao Mingxin, tall and burly, wears a pair of thin edged glasses all the year round. He walks with a tiger and has a strong wind. He speaks with a slow tongue and a straightforward character. He often points to the core key in his understatement.
He dabbled in a wide range of places, and the world was full of beauty.
Zhou Libo, a member of Shanghai style, said that Shanghai men had a tune and lived in Shanghai for decades.
< /p >
P, once again, sat down and talked with Professor Bao Mingxin. After 4 years from the last meeting, he was less than a month away from his retirement.
His office, like his home many years ago, is surrounded by books and various copywriters, sometimes decorated with green plants and purple sand pots.
The child, who still looks as clear as a child, sits idly in his chair and tells his past and retirement in a straight way.
The reason why professor Bao Mingxin was called "father" was started 11 years ago. At that time, she had just entered the door of the comment "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "clothing < /a". In the face of one of the pioneers of Chinese dress criticism, she was more respectful than trembling. This feeling is even more intense now.
< /p >
< p > < strong > in which it is pcendence, < /strong > /p >
< p > remember someone's comment on Professor Bao: "it is appropriate to use a frankness that is not enough to describe its personality, and wisdom is not enough to set off its talents, and wisdom is not enough to explain its erudition".
< /p >
< p > China's clothing reviews, costumes, costumes, photography, model competitions, design competitions and so on are today inseparable from the names of the older generation of practitioners. They not only have design talents, academies, experts, but also gather outstanding talents from all sectors to blend in.
Bao Mingxin, Donghua University, is one of the prominent representatives. The famous clothing critic and Dean of the school of art of Soochow University, Li Chao De, commented on the old man in his costume criticism. His achievements in the study of clothing history in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, as well as the study and collection of paintings and fans in Ming and Qing Dynasties, are famous in the theoretical and collection circles.
In particular, his pioneering work in the curriculum construction of fashion criticism and his contribution to the training of fashion media talents made him the authority of clothing reviews.
< /p >
< p > "when we introduced the foreign clothing field at that time, we had to make a lot of comments.
At that time, I saw many foreign important commentators, and the comments at that time were also imitation.
The content of the commentary is Chinese clothing, but the way of commentary is foreign.
In the early years, there were more fashion critics than Nie Changshuo in fashion magazine. At that time, there was a comment on the North Nie Nan Bao. Later there was the formulation of the North Yuan Nan Bao. In short, the South was my representative.
< /p >
< p > although Bao Mingxin has no earthshaking influence in the industry like Dior's "new shape", he has become the leader of China's "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "clothing" /a "Aesthetics", "clothing social psychology", "a target=" _blank "_blank", "textile" clothing history, dyeing and weaving pattern history and fashion criticism.
"Bao Mingxin's clothing criticism, which is gentle and slow, has inherited the style of the Shanghai style literati, and his comments are frivolous and uninhibited, showing the mood of the Shanghai style literati."
(Li Chao German) < /p >
< p > Bao Mingxin's contribution to the history of clothing and fashion criticism is very important in the contemporary Chinese clothing industry. He has also become one of the backbone in the professional field both at home and abroad. He accepts the current research methods of costume history and makes a new way in the academic field.
His works "Encyclopedia of China, textile volume", "China's history of dyeing and weaving embroideries," "fashion interpretation", "fashion criticism", "fashionable dictionary" and "fashion discourse" have influenced many people. Today's industry's most famous critic Bian Xiangyang, < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/".
< /p >
< p > in the process of civilization, there are always some people who are not for the times, not to tide over the trend, to keep their original ideas, such as Qian Zhongshu and Nan Huai Jin, such as the contemporary Chinese hermit who lived in the Southern Hills.
They maintain a detached relationship with the times and society. They are both inside and out of the world, and Bao Mingxin is also so in the clothing industry.
Shortly after entering twenty-first Century, perhaps Yves Saint Laurent was disappointed with high fashion. Bao Mingxin was not interested in the increasingly impetuous fashion circle, and lived a secluded life as outsiders thought.
"I said I had been ridiculous for ten years, and I could have turned the prodigal son back.
Those so-called "beautiful" and "money" clothes are relatively shallow, and I have mainly done some introductions, but I have nothing to do with them, but I have introduced the foreign things faithfully and faithfully without any nonsense.
Dress aesthetics, clothing social psychology, I have established a good personal relationship with foreign leaders, such as Susan B.Kaiser (Susan Kaiser), author of "clothing aesthetics", Mary Ellen (Mary Aaron), a very good personal relationship.
I do not understand, we will discuss.
These ten years are also good memories, not all waste, but it is a bit of a waste. "
{page_break} < /p >
After P, Bao Mingxin gradually faded away from the industry. He would only come out and say something like Hanfu sports, cheongsam, fashion show history and his favorite designers.
"In academic research, do what you like -- not always like what you did before.
The recent years of retirement have been pferred to their favorite academic subjects, and they do not like to do so. That is for sure.
< /p >
< p > "I do not do anything binding in school.
Fan Lizeng, a teacher at The China Academy of Art, has said that doing humanities is not like other disciplines, and it will be studied if there are related problems. There are no such problems in humanities.
People who study history should, like the humanities, study for themselves.
The so-called "research" is not for their own company or their aspirations to study, not for others to see, should be for their own interests and research, without utilitarian purpose.
When I applied for the national publishing project, people told me that how to change the topic would be easily approved.
Of course, I want to get the support of the state and want to enter the key publishing program, but I will not change my topic because of this. "
This is what many people think of the character of a bag master.
< /p >
< p > "I am a little bit of love and hate. I like it very much and I hate it.
Now that I am old, I feel deeply that I hate something that is not bad. Actually, the person I hate is actually characteristic of him, but that characteristic is not liked by me.
But I am tired of being annoyed. My understanding of people is generally not changed. For example, fashion designers like Wu Haiyan, Liu Yang and Wang Yiyang always like it.
Now I'm always willing to do something about the petrel, and we are going to do something for the China silk museum together.
Jiang Shan is easy to change, but his temperament is hard to move. This is a man of Frank character and a wise old man.
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< p > < strong > vertically and horizontally involving ancient and modern Chinese and foreign languages < /strong > < /p >
From a certain angle, Bao Mingxin has the style and legend of those scholars in the new culture movement in the early twentieth Century. P
In the early years, he studied mathematics at the Department of mathematics of Shanghai Normal University, and later pferred to the textile history of East China Textile Institute of technology. Professor of clothing history, history, culture, archaeology, collection, English, French and Japanese, outstanding achievements, admirable.
< /p >
< p > it has always been held that the logic and the academic rigour of his father in his academic logic are due to his logical thinking in mathematics, and the professional pformation from mathematics to clothing is another legendary story.
< /p >
< p > "at that time I studied mathematics with the compulsion of the times.
I was the 66 senior high school. I liked literature since I was young. I was very good at writing at the time of my senior high school. The Vice Chancellor amended it with my own brush. I have always been proud of it.
Because the family composition is not very good, parents think that there will be no way out after literature, and a brother and sister who study chemistry and a medical school all emphasize science and engineering.
Fortunately, I am a fast learner, and mathematics and physics can always take the first place.
Because of historical reasons, I was only admitted to university in 1977.
In fact, I wanted to study international relations at that time, but because of the taboo of family composition, I finally applied for mathematics.
After reading Math for one year, I found that mathematics needed endurance very much, and I was not fit for thirty.
Because grandpa is the first chief engineer of China Textile Construction Corporation, the textile industry is very old and very interesting, so when choosing postgraduate major, he applied for the history of textile.
It's very natural to turn around to teach clothing history later. "
Professor Bao's experience has undergone many twists and turns, but his intelligence and intentions are reflected in it.
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< p > leaving behind a batch of achievements and works, fading out of the small circles that he seems to be doing in the field of learning, which is very small and boring, Bao Ming Xin is based on the history of textile and clothing, starting from academic research, and flapping his talents in a broader field.
His series of research results in the history of dyeing and weaving patterns stimulated his interest in art history and arts and crafts history.
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< p > "I like art history.
In the past two years, bit by bit is also being done.
He once wrote "tengbai research", a painter who was active in the Republic of China.
But this area now has less energy and will do more after retirement.
Because I am interested in art history. "
< /p >
< p > and what he is most interested in now is an academic research in his hands -- the study of the costumes history of the northern minorities.
"The study of ethnic costumes should be studied longitudinally based on time from a historical perspective, because there is a logical relationship in time, but in many museums, we can see that there is only a horizontal distribution of clothing for ethnic minorities, but there is no change in time."
It is precisely because of this lack of academic research that Bao Mingxin intends to develop a book on the study of ancient ethnic costumes to fill gaps in the history of the development of Chinese costume culture.
< /p >
In fact, the minority nationalities in the north have great influence on the history of China, including the current Chinese territory and the enterprising spirit of the Chinese people. The minority nationalities often bring new vitality to the Central Plains.
This is also my main research direction. The contents of the party and the Nu nationality are just beginning. After that, there are Khitan, Uighur, Tubo, Xianbei and so on. These things can be done after retirement.
People who study political and military history will emphasize the struggle between ethnic minorities and the Han people of the Central Plains, that is, conquest and subjugation. In terms of clothing, there are many exchanges and integration among different ethnic groups. From this perspective, we can also see how the ancients handled contradictions and integration among nationalities. This is of practical significance.
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< p > from the research of clothing history to collection, it is logical. From collection to museum, it is the same origin. Therefore, it is not surprising that the master said that he would do some museum work after retirement. Besides, he has done a lot of work in this respect.
At present, the Shanghai textile and clothing Museum, which has been built in Donghua University, is what he has led to build. The collection of clothing and objects in the late Qing Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty is all his handwriting.
In addition, he has been invited to participate in the identification and discussion of cultural relics throughout the country. His interest, cognition and devotion in this area has become a major part of his work and life.
< /p >
< p > "I find that the Chinese Museum has a special feature. It only plays with Chinese things. It's almost all Chinese, but to British Museum, the collection is from all over the world.
Chinese people are very fond of their own things, do not like other people's things.
Of course, things are slowly changing now.
Last time I said at a seminar of Zhejiang Provincial Cultural Relics Bureau, the national strength was strong. We should have an international view and put money there, thanks to buying something good.
So they bought a collection of Bauhaus in a collector in Berlin, spending 5 hundred million, and now the best things in Bauhaus are in our country.
Perhaps it is the habit of studying history that makes the old man eager to promote the reappearance of history in the contemporary era, and constantly put forward good suggestions for the Cultural Relics Bureau and take an active part in it.
But, "I volunteered for the Cultural Relics Bureau."
< /p >
< p > "I will spend more time doing volunteer work.
Bian Xiangyang and I once said that we do not want to do mandatory work, but are willing to volunteer.
In the last class of this semester, many students wrote to me and asked if they could come back to ask what to write again. I said, "yes, of course, welcome."
He turned over the homework that the students handed in, and many students' requests on the first page were particularly prominent.
< /p >
< p > from the Ming and Qing Dynasties costumes, furniture of the Republic of China to calligraphy and painting, fans, Bao Ming's work and life are always full of interest and novelty, and his obsessive studies in every field are amazingly deep.
In his own opinion, these are just the life that diverges from interest. "I am more fascinated by purple sand, ha ha!"
< /p >
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