• <abbr id="ck0wi"><source id="ck0wi"></source></abbr>
    <li id="ck0wi"></li>
  • <li id="ck0wi"><dl id="ck0wi"></dl></li><button id="ck0wi"><input id="ck0wi"></input></button>
  • <abbr id="ck0wi"></abbr>
  • <li id="ck0wi"><dl id="ck0wi"></dl></li>
  • Home >

    Why Did Leonard Choose To Enter The Chinese Market So Late?

    2016/3/21 23:24:00 46

    FashionBrandDesign

    Daniel Tribouillard found

    Latest fashion

    The impact of fashion has changed completely.

    Tribouillard is the founder of Leonard in Paris fashion house. He founded this fashion more than 60 years ago.

    brand

    Like Chanel art director Karl Lagergeld and Armani founder Giorgio Armani, Tribouillard was born in the age of 1930.

    But what's different is that the material that initially made him stand firm in the industry was not.

    Design

    After graduating from high school, Tribouillard, then 18, worked in the fabric supplier Leonard Leonard company. He was responsible for receiving Dior, Hermes, Givenchy and Paris home.

    Unexpectedly, two years later, the war of independence broke out in Algeria.

    In accordance with the French military service system at that time, Tribouillard joined the army.

    When he returned to France, he found that the fashion industry suddenly started to make up garments, which were produced by machines in large quantities instead of tailored clothes.

    "Before that, there is nothing else but advanced customization.

    Until one day, Pierre Cardin (Pierre Cardin) suddenly announced that he wanted to make fashion popular.

    Tribouillard talked about the important change that affected the fashion industry more than 50 years ago in The Peninsula Hotel: "my employer, Leonard boss, assigned me a task to make clothes, and to succeed."


    {page_break}


    In 1960, he invented the fully fashioned printing pullover, breaking the relationship between the British weaving technology and printing can not coexist.

    Tribouillard then rushed to the old customers who had been contacted before joining the army to promote sales.

    Since then, Leonard has been promoted from cloth suppliers to luxury partners to create exclusive prints for them.

    According to Tribouillard recalls, orders were 100 or 150 at the start.

    With the reputation of Dior, Hermes, Givenchy and so on, the fully formed printed sweater has become a household name.

    By the time the exclusive agreement was over, the huge order of retailers was coming.

    To ensure shipments, Leonard has built a factory in a nearby city of Paris for more than 300 employees, three shifts to the ground to produce pullovers.

    However, fashion is always a flash in the pan, and the fully formed Jersey is gradually out of favor after a few years.

    After seeing the declining sales figures, Tribouillard swiftly pferred the gun head and launched a brand-new silk knitted Printed Dress in 1968 years.

    This time, he also wore slogans "experiencing happiness under the weight of 150 grams", emphasizing the lightness and convenience of fabrics, catering to the mainstream feelings of freedom in European fashion and gold age.

    In the same year, Leonard stores opened in the 8 District of luxury goods gathered in Paris.

    Leonard printing factory in Yokohama, Japan

    Leonard printing factory in Yokohama, Japan

    Leonard printing factory in Yokohama, Japan


    {page_break}


    The world's first market in Leonard is not France, but Japan, which is 8 hours apart from Paris. It is not surprising that Japan has always been a luxury brand.

    But for many years, the Chinese market has never been opened up until 4 months ago when the first shops in the mainland opened.

    But Leonard may now be an embarrassing time to choose to enter China. According to Bain consulting, luxury consumption in China has entered a period of growth stagnation after a crazy growth in China, even shrinking in 2014 and 2015.

    Not long ago, Daniel Tribouillard came to Shanghai after the 2016 Paris exhibition in autumn and winter, and talked about the history of entrepreneurship with the interface, and his views on the current fashion industry.

    But the Chinese market is strange to him.

    Because there is no understanding of the similarities and differences between Hongkong customers and mainland customers, there are differences between Daniel Tribouillard and her daughter NathalieTribouillard.

    Daniel Tribouillard believes that consumption preferences vary from place to place because they are separated by a river.

    However, his daughter, Leonard CEO, believes that "Hongkong women are mature and petty bourgeoisie, but female customers in the mainland are younger and very fashionable.

    They may also like our customers in Hongkong, but their lifestyle and habits are different from those of Hongkong. "

    Daniel Tribouillard and daughter Nathalie Tribouillard

    Reporter: the time for Leonard to choose to enter the Chinese market is quite puzzling. Why is it so late?

    DT: actually, as early as 1993, we opened our shop in spring in Paris, Shanghai.

    It turned out to be too early to be used. No one bought luxury goods at that time, so the shop was closed in less than a year.

    Now, even if the cost of opening a shop is much higher than twenty years ago, we must enter.

    According to the plan, Leonard is ready to open shops in major cities of China, such as Shanghai and Beijing.

    NT: there is also a need to add that the Chinese market is probably the most complex in the world.

    We always wanted to come in, but it was later than the three luxury giants such as LVMH, Kai Yun and Li Feng.

    Their brands occupy all the high quality shops. We only have to wait for certain brands to adjust the strategy to withdraw from stores, which gives us the chance to get the Hang Hang now.

    DT: the present bunk (located on the 3 floor) is good, but it would be better if it were on the ground floor.

    Besides, besides the bunk, we need time to figure out which products can attract Chinese female customers.


    {page_break}


    Reporter: what will Leonard do in specific operation?

    DT: in Japan, Europe and the United States, our goal is to further develop.

    But the first step in the Chinese market is to open up awareness and explain to Chinese women and young girls what Leonard is.

    Our marketing colleagues in Shanghai, Hongkong and Macao will tell us which products sell better in China.

    The reason why Leonard has 115 stores in Japan is mainly because local women have already accepted printing at the traditional cultural level.

    Their traditional costume kimono has many flower patterns.

    Besides, I spent 3 months in the Jingdong studying kimono, and I know more about Japanese women's preferences and consumption habits. For example, the swimsuit series launched by our European market will not enter the Japanese market.

    I find that Chinese people do not like to go to the beach to bask in the sun.

    I'm still thinking about coming to Shanghai for fashion show. What do you think? If we can get to know this brand, it should be good.

    25 models, rents and media invitations are paid for.

    Paris's 15 minute show is not cheap, but it costs 50 euros. It can be very effective. We can invite thousands of spectators, media and retailers.

    But some people also told me that the risk of running shows in Shanghai was due to the fact that the Chinese brand and the French brand had no relationship.

    We haven't made the final decision yet, but I still have my own support.

    Leonard Paris 2016 autumn winter series

    Leonard Paris 2016 autumn winter series

    Leonard Paris 2016 autumn winter series


    {page_break}


    Reporter: the latest season of Leonard Paris has been completed without the creative director.

    Since the resignation of Vronique Leroy in 2011, Leonard has changed several creative directors from Maxime Simoens to Raffaele Borriello to the last Yin Yiqing.

    Why is this job harder to find?

    DT: the last season was designed by me.

    Our former creative director is Yin Yi Qing from China. The 4 series she designed before is very interesting, but she can't sell them, they are not enough Leonard.

    Customers will ask, "where did your prints go?"

    You know, every new series takes a lot of effort and money, so we can't afford to make mistakes. This is the fashion industry.

    When Nathalie talked about the difference between the mainland and Hongkong customers, they mentioned that they should cater for young people. But I think the most primitive thing in the brand can not be abandoned.

    Like the fashion made by Qing Qing, there is a lot of global opposition.

    Whether consumers like it or not, they know at least that Leonard is printing, but now they are lost.

    Of course, I am not a designer myself, so I need to find creative director to work with me in 6 months as soon as possible.

    We have to design hundreds of printed designs every year. Leonard has a special printing team and will design patterns according to the requirements of the director.

    The problem now is that you can't find anyone who knows how to print.

    We have previously hired graduates from London Saint Martin and Ecole de la chambre syndicale de la Couture Parisienne Paris, but we can not talk with them about printing.

    Today's design institutes only teach design and tailoring. Of course, I may need such talents, but the key to brand lies in printing.

    It may be possible to find such talents in art schools.

    Leonard former creative director Yin Yiqing

    Leonard former creative director Yin Yiqing

    Reporter: since 1980s, the original independent luxury brands have been bought by large groups.

    Why is Leonard still a family business?

    DT: I still enjoy working all day.

    Nathalie is the general manager, who is responsible for doing things I don't like to do (laughs), such as meeting with marketing department, and I still like to study printing patterns.

    After graduating from HEC (Paris High School of Commerce), she worked in Hermes and Podolf Goodman. Unfortunately, she did not understand printing.

    So as long as I'm still there, I'll take charge of the printing part, but then I'll have to find someone to help me.

    If possible, I still hope that Leonard can operate independently in the form of family business.

    My grandchildren have 6 people, they are very young, but there may be future successors.

    The advantage of not being under the consortium is that we can manage the company according to our wishes, though there are risks, but there are also degrees of freedom.

    Now that family businesses are becoming less and less, luxury goods groups are getting stronger and stronger. I don't know what will happen in the future, but at least Leonard does not need financial assistance at least.

    Reporter: "show is selling" is a hot topic in the fashion industry recently. It is intended to eliminate the waiting time of 6 months between the show and the sales.

    Not long ago, it was negated by the French Fashion Association.

    What do you think of this?

    DT: fast fashion! I am a member of the French Association of high tech, and I work with the brand CEO including Chanel Bruno Pavlovsky, Dior's Sidney Toledano, Chlo Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye...... our committee has 17 or 18 people.

    The reason why they voted not to adopt the American way is because they do not fashion, but industrial production.

    What the French brand still does is fashion design. After the show, buyers can choose the style they like and then enter the production.

    We do not want this system to be broken, at least for now, we will not take the show to sell.

    You can say that this is old-fashioned, but I prefer to see it as the essential difference between American industry and European fashion.

    • Related reading

    Xiangyun Sha: How To Keep Design Inspiration Constantly?

    Celebrity interviews
    |
    2016/3/21 20:47:00
    45

    Gong Shuishan, General Manager Of Di Kai: Clothing Customization Is An Inevitable Market Trend.

    Celebrity interviews
    |
    2016/3/21 20:41:00
    60

    KD9 Shoes Conference Was Held In The United States Recently.

    Celebrity interviews
    |
    2016/3/21 10:19:00
    86

    UNIQLO Ryui Masa: Although They Are Fast Fashion, They Are Different From Zara.

    Celebrity interviews
    |
    2016/3/16 17:04:00
    69

    Two Will Be Over, Jin Jianhua Told The 2016 Clothing Industry.

    Celebrity interviews
    |
    2016/3/14 9:39:00
    51
    Read the next article

    The Hard Process Of Creating A Brand For A Woman

    For the first time in the past five years, it seems this is the first time that other designers are going to turn to Versace's hotness. This is the brand that has polished dozens of styles.

    主站蜘蛛池模板: 内射一区二区精品视频在线观看| 色噜噜狠狠色综合日日| 又大又硬又爽又深免费看| 国产精品久久久久久福利| 天天在线天天综合网色| 成人午夜18免费看| 成人网站在线进入爽爽爽| 攵女yin乱合集小丹| 挺进邻居丰满少妇的身体| 小雪你好紧好烫好爽| 扒开内裤直接进| 天天久久综合网站| 国产男女爽爽爽免费视频| 国产精品VIDEOSSEX久久发布| 国产精品无码无在线观看| 成人免费视频网| 婷婷五月在线视频| 堕落前辈泄欲便器渡会| 在免费jizzjizz在线播| 国产综合久久久久鬼色| 国产精品亚洲色婷婷99久久精品| 国产色无码精品视频国产| 国产精品视频第一区二区三区| 国产高潮国产高潮久久久| 国产超碰人人模人人爽人人喊| 国产成人无码AV一区二区| 国产亚洲欧美日韩在线看片| 国产肝交视频在线观看| 国产午夜精品一区二区三区| 国产成人久久av免费| 国产伦子系列视频6| 噜噜噜噜噜在线观看视频| 内射极品少妇XXXXXHD| 亚洲伊人久久精品影院| 大香焦伊人久久| 国外bbw免费视频| 国产精品免费看久久久久 | 日韩亚洲av无码一区二区三区 | 毛片毛片免费看| 欧美大片一区二区| 日韩精品久久无码中文字幕|