From The 45 Designers To See The Latest Five Trend Of International Brand Adoption

For high-end

For luxury brands, the existence of "creative director" or "art director" is

Leading (rather than following) the global fashion trend, inheriting and developing the brand's unique DNA guarantee.

At the same time, whether it is a hundred years old or rising stars, we must carefully balance the weight of creativity and commerce so that brands can be "applauded" and "popular".

The market is changing, the brand strategy is changing, and the way of employing is changing. What kind of "creative talents" do we need in this era?

We witnessed the 29 position.

When he took office, he was full of pride. At the same time, 16 designers split up with the brand and set up another job.

By combing the personnel changes of these creative posts, we summed up the five most recent trends in employing international brands:

Young trend culture forces infiltrate the luxury industry

Designers leave more or less for short-term sales data.

Brand vs designer, power game is more subtle.

Joint cross-border breaking the "one card, one person" binding system

"Young" and "understanding", brand new key words for creative director.

Young trend culture forces infiltrate the luxury industry

French classic luxury brand Louis Vuitton hired Virgil Off-White Abloh, New York Street chaired Off-White director, as an artistic director of men's wear, becoming an extremely rare European luxury brand that was hosted by African American designers.

As one of the first luxury brands to catch up with street fashion, Michael Burke, chairman and chief executive officer of Louis Vuitton, said: "Virgil Abloh has the inherent creativity and the ability to subvert pop culture. His sensitivity to luxury and proprietary technology will inject new vitality into Louis Vuitton men's clothing."

There is still more data to prove whether Virgil Abloh absorbs gold after suction. However, the new menswear flash store opened in Tokyo at the beginning of Louis Vuitton 2019 in 48 hours is 30% higher than that in the 2017 Supreme joint series (in the same time).

However, a long history of luxury brands, how to make good use of tide designer, is not easy to clap your head.

Louis Vuitton has been actively collaborate with all kinds of avant-garde artists in the past decade and more. In 2017, it has launched a joint series with New York Chao Supreme Supreme, which sells more than one hundred million euros in a single series.

Virgil Abloh's predecessor, Kim Jones, made the first decision after turning to Dior as the artistic director of menswear. The first decision she made was to invite Japanese Ahn, the founder of Japan's trendy Ambush Ambush, as the jewelry designer of the brand men's wear. She was famous for her jewels of great interest, such as mini Teddy Bear Pendant, gold pin collar, and cold high-tech headphones.

When the news of Riccardo Tisci's entry into Burberry was released, the share price of the brand rose by 4%.

In 2005, Riccardo Tisci (Goth) joined his dark Goth (Gothic) in joining the bankrupt Givenchy and helped him turn to profitability.

Burberry chose to cooperate with Riccardo Tisci. Perhaps it was his dark and black humor in his Givenchy design style. He hoped to add a little "rebellious" color to the genes of the brand old gentleman.

Announcing the appointment, Marco Gobbetti, chief executive of Burberry brand, said: "Riccardo Tisci is one of the most talented designers in our era.

His design has the elegance of modernity and the integration of street clothes and high fashion. This skill is closely related to today's luxury consumers.

His participation has increased the confidence of our design team. "

Designers leave more or less for short-term sales data.

In the fashion industry, the designer's personal style and brand business objectives have been unified for a long time, and the contradiction is inevitable.

But in the digital age, the speed of this kind of contradiction is speeding up, and the designers' leaving or leaving is more or less the short-term sales data.

Whether it is Haider Ackermann, Yin Yiqing, Raf Simons, Nathan Jenden, Olivier Lapidus, or Nina-Maria Nitsche, they have been in office for the longest two years from their appointment to office, and the shortest is only 7 months.

It is possible for us not to be entangled, but let the designer's trial and error space be compressed smaller and smaller. Ten years of grinding a sword may have become the most luxurious dream.

In today's rapidly changing market environment and in front of new and old consumers, "how to keep innovating and respond quickly" has become a sharp problem for most brands and designers.

The running in period between most brands and designers is greatly reduced, and the way of selecting and assessing designers is more direct.

More brands also choose to move closer to the business model of chao chao, and introduce new Drop, such as:

According to the world clothing and shoe net, Burberry has been offering limited edition fashion and other new products from 17 every month since October 2018. It has been sold through social channels such as Instagram, etc., and the whole sale time is 24 hours.

Moncler CEO Remo Ruffini has expressed the hope that the company can launch a new down jacket series every month.

Tod 's launched the "Tod s Factory" project. In the future, it will issue more than one series every year. In addition to the regular series of two seasons in a year, there will be capsule series and limited series. The creative director of the brand has been vacant for nearly three years. At present, all the work is done by the internal creative team.

Haider Ackermann, a French designer from Columbia, cooperated with French luxury menswear brand Berluti for only a year and a half (three seasons).

Haider Ackermann simplified Berluti's exquisite and complex men's wear style and got a good response.

But the brand CEO, who dissatisfied with the designer, spends too much time and energy on his own brand, fails to fulfill his promise and often absences from the activities of Berluti brand.

Yin Yiqing, a Chinese American designer, has spent a lot of effort on the Paul Poiret, a newly customized Paris originator who has just returned. The first series has restored the brand's original Oriental style in an extremely meticulous manner.

The reason for the "flashing" between the two sides may be the host of Paul Poire, and the new world international for the future development of the brand, which is not consistent with the design route that Yin Yi Qing is good at.

Industry insiders say that the new world international investment is the Paul Poiret brand, not the designer.

In the future, we may want more media exposure and fans support, which will greatly boost sales and provide support for the perfumed beauty make-up project. They may also hire a big designer as the new artistic director.

Last year's breakup story was the Belgian designer Raf Simons and the US brand Calvin Klein.

After leaving Dior, Raf Simons, a high-profile American brand Calvin Klein, began to be complacent and was given complete freedom of creation. She was fully responsible for the design of men's and women's wear series.

But he has been in office for less than two years, and has been publicly accused by CEO, the parent of the brand and PVH group, that his design is too advanced and expensive, and that "there is more than enough art."

The total investment in the new series of Raf Simons operators ranged from 6000 to $70 million, but the returns were far from expected. In the third quarter of 2018, Calvin Klein sales increased by 2% compared to the same period last year, while the pre tax profit (EBIT) fell 17.4% compared to the same period due to the increase in creative and marketing costs.

In September of this year, Calvin Klein decided to withdraw part of its Raf Simons rights, including store design, visual merchandising, e-commerce, public relations and communications, and corporate social responsibility. It will no longer report to Raf Simons and be responsible by the chief marketing officer.

Although the company offered a renewal contract to Raf Simons, Raf Simons, which was deeply dissatisfied with the creative power, rejected the new contract and the two sides broke up ahead of schedule.

The whole process is only 28 months.

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Brand vs designer, power game is more subtle.

It is worth noting that in October 2015, when Raf Simons left the post of creative director of Dior brand women's clothing, she also had news sources that the reason for leaving was Dior company's reluctance to let go.

The documentary "Dior and I" really depicts the process of Raf Simons's preparation for the first show after joining Dior. It can feel deeply how a designer who has just entered the classic brand is walking on thin ice, how to adapt to the original design team of the brand, how to deal with the brand CEO, how to deal with the relationship, when to be strong and when to compromise, all need to be very delicate trade-offs.

After LVMH Celine, the new creative director of Hedi's Slimane brand, was elected, the outside world felt that he was "strong" or even unreasonable.

With the change of logo, the history of Instagram brand account, and so on, a series of attempts to erase the traces of taking office have attracted many brand fans' emotional rebounding.

In the face of all sorts of accusations, Hedi Slimane once said, "I have to overcome my difficulties and stick to myself if I bring a story, culture and personal language into a brand different from others."

Such strength has attracted numerous controversies, but it also makes him and his brand more visible and visible in social media.

The new creative director tends to integrate his personal style into the brand DNA, so that the style of products, stores and fashion shows will be refreshed.

But for a brand that has been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, its public image and marketing caliber are completely different from the arrival of a designer. Through the spread and fermentation of social media, it usually leads to two kinds of positive and negative voices, or even heated arguments, which will make the brand sensitive nerves more vulnerable.

In the age of social media, the more controversial, the stronger the contrast, the easier it is to differentiate, and the more users can participate.

But are these flows regarded as "tap water" equal to the real market and users?

When did the star designers who had been calling for wind and rain rely on them for a long time? What can they bring to the brand?

The answer to these questions depends not only on the designer's individual, but also on the strategic formulation and execution ability of the brand management.

What's more, today's brand is much more popular than ever.

The tide brand fire has made many brands realize that joint crossover is an effective marketing tool. Joint cross-border activities also help boost the brand's IP and quietly break the close relationship between the past brand and a creative director.

In 2018:

Moncler ended the partnership with the two designers, Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne, who were originally responsible for the Gamme Rouge of the women's wear accessory line and the Gamme Bleu of the men's accessory line Gamme Bleu, and launched a new Moncler Genius project -- launching a joint series with 8 creative designers and creative personages of the fashion industry, such as the creative director of the creative company, the founder of Teng Yuan Hao.

Burberry announced the launch of a joint series with the British fashion designer Vivienne Westwood.

Supreme released four joint names in October: the classic American Cowboy brand Levi 's, the skateboard brand Vans, the outdoor brand The North Face, and Hongkong director Johnwoo's 1989 movie "double blood".

UNIQLO is even a "combine harvester". Its partners include: Murakami Takashi, Disney, man Wei, KAWS, Jil Sander, Christophe Lemaire and so on. It has also succeeded in building the "crossover + T-shirt" of its T-shirt product line UT into a systematic commercial sales mode.

...

"Young" and "understanding", brand new key words for creative director.

"Youth" and "understanding" are two key words that Lanvin and Bottega Veneta have appeared in explaining how to select creative directors.

In order to revive Lanvin's past glory, China's Fosun International Group has become an important part of its revival plan after it has completed the acquisition of the majority equity of the brand.

After thousands of choices, it was decided to fill the vacancy for nearly 10 months by Bruno Sialell, which is only 32 years old.

As for the reasons for choosing Sialell, Lanvin explains: after repeatedly selecting many outstanding designers, Sialelli stands out from the contemporary vision of Lanvin, which is full of vitality and meticulous interpretation and understanding of the essence of the brand as well as the vivid description of the future of the brand.

It is worth noting that the most impressive part of Lanvin's presentation is the more youthful interpretation of the essence of the brand tradition.

Daniel Lee, a new creative director of Kai Yun group's brand Bottega Veneta, is also only 32 years old. It has neither personal brand nor creative director of any brand, and even its design style is very little known outside the world. Compared with the brand creative director, who has worked for the brand for 17 years, has made outstanding achievements, and has been 61 years old German designer Tomas Maier, the gap between the two people is quite different.

Bottega Veneta CEO Claus Dietrich Lahrs said: "Daniel Lee has a deep understanding of the brand's creativity and development challenges.

He will inject new and unique creative language for Bottega Veneta. He will continue to lead the brand to greater success through the great foundation laid by the brand over the years.

In addition to Bruno Sialell and Daniel Lee, more and more Post-80 designers are taking the responsibility of brand creative director.

For example: Louis Vuitton Virgil Abloh 38 years old, Carolina Herrera Wes Gorden 32 years old, M Missoni Margherita Margherita 35 years old...

Conclusion:

In this uncertain business world, what forces force brands and designers, business organizations and creative talents to recognize and trust each other? We think it is a strategic vision for the situation, a profound understanding and renewal of brand DNA, and the courage to change and innovate.

Let's wait and see how well these brands will perform in the next few years.

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